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Topic-icon Bean can rebuild

  • Barron Von Parry
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1 month 1 week ago #6262 by Barron Von Parry
Bean can rebuild was created by Barron Von Parry
Hi all I was wondering if anybody could direct me to a good write up for rebuilding the bean can? I have the high idle once the bike warms up I replaced the hall effect switch with no result. I didn't replace the springs yet I may do that but if I need to remove the bean can again to replace springs I could really use some good direction on what to look for and replace what special grease is needed what to use to seal the cap since the the old foam seal disintegrated. Any help/links would be appreciated, since I have more time on my hands as of late I would like to nip this in the bud and stop dragging the clutch to slow down the high idle.

Thanks,
Ben

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1 month 1 week ago #6264 by 8166
Replied by 8166 on topic Bean can rebuild
You will find an article I wrote a long time ago when I rebuilt the bean can on my R100GS in the Tech Tips section of this web site. I lubricated it with Bosch points cam grease, but like you, I did not replace the springs. At that time, the only ones available were of questionable quality and strength. It wasn't long before it was back to sticking again. I've heard rumors that the correct springs are once again available from reputable sources, but I don't consider a rebuilt bean can the best option available. There are now several designs out there now, and all of them offer far more reliability than BMW's Hall effect trigger ever did. Some even mount to the crank nose, avoiding any chance that timing chain induced variations will throw the timing off. I use and recommend the Emerald Island Alpha ignition for single plug bikes; the dual plug version does not have the correct advance curve. For those bikes, I've had good experience with the Silent Hektik ignition, but it's relatively expensive and requires that the timing be reset if the alternator rotor is disturbed.

Hope this helps, and please let us know how you decide to proceed.

8166 Scot Marburger, This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.

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1 month 1 week ago - 1 month 1 week ago #6269 by Wobbly
Replied by Wobbly on topic Bean can rebuild
Agree with Scot. Newer EI products now store the advance curve in software, which entirely removes all the need for mechanical advance mechanisms. These older mechanical devices depend upon good springs, lubricated mechanisms, and zero mechanical wear to operate smoothly and reliably in a VERY harsh environment.

Additionally, and maybe more importantly.... fuels have changed drastically since the mid-1980's and the advance curves have changed with them. Restoring an older bean can to 1980 specs for a fuel that no longer exists is somewhat, as the saying goes, throwing good money after bad. The newer EI products will be programmed with advance curves that better fit today's fuels.

I rebuilt the points-style bean can on my 1979 RT with a totally electronic EI from Boyer and I've been very happy with its performance. I did experience other electrical issues related to connector corrosion, but since its installation running and idling have been the very least of my worries.

Hope this helps.

Don't hide 'em, Ride 'em !!
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Last edit: 1 month 1 week ago by Wobbly.

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1 month 6 days ago #6295 by Barron Von Parry
Replied by Barron Von Parry on topic Bean can rebuild
Thanks for all your help I wish I would have done that before buying a new HE sensor. Maybe I can sell my can and new HE sensor to re-coop my losses to buy the Alpha Ignition. Do you guys know anyone that would need an old bean can and new HE sensor :wink:

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3 weeks 2 days ago #6395 by Blue-1
Replied by Blue-1 on topic Bean can rebuild
Just another option.

EME has a rebuilt bean can exchange program, www.euromotoelectrics.com/product-p/beancanreman.htm .
The cost is $280, but they refund you $100 when you send them your old bean-can.

Something to think about, especially if you want to keep your Airhead stock.

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