You're correct. Large screwdrivers are a thing of the past, ever since cheap Asian hand tools flooded the market. It's really hard to find off-size hand tools anymore.

You mentioned "hollow-ground", and this is an important requirement. Instead of an angled or wedge-shaped tip, the driver blade you need requires a blade with parallel sides. This keeps the blade from camming up and out of the slot under torque, thus giving you good "purchase" on the object trying to be rotated. But more importantly, preventing the distruction of the item you are trying to move to a point where even the correct tool can't turn it. We professionals have a technical term used for this condition called "buggered all to heck". We professionals also have a special monetary charge for working with buggered-up items, but that's another story !! 😆

The best and easiest way is to buy a socket-mounted screwdriver bit from one of the big tool makers. You'll have a much easier time finding one with parallel blades, and the presence of a 3/8 or 1/2 inch drive will allow you to turn the bit with a much higher torque. Some bench grinding may still be required to get your bit to perfectly fit the tube, but getting a perfect fit IS important.

Speaking of torque, you'll not want to use a common socket ratchet or "pull bar" handle to turn your new bit. These, due to the single-sided handle, add their own side loads making it hard to attack the tube straight-on. You'll want the added security of what's called a T-handle, so that turning forces are equally added to both sides of the item you're trying to rotate.

Hope this helps.

Try McMaster-Carr bit #55085A31 for $10.30

Try McMaster-Carr Sliding T-handle #5523A13 for $24

Try McMaster-Carr bit #55085A31 for $10.30

Try McMaster-Carr Sliding T-handle #5523A13 for $24

Thanks Wobbly. You're a great resource as always. I ordered these tools today.

Do you know if the center pipes are glued in with Loctite? Thanks again

I have no earthly idea !

If the thought of oil leaking around the tube threads makes you loose sleep, then I'd suggest a thin sealer, such as LocTite 510 or 428. These are anaerobic sealers that work like the thread lockers, but do 90% sealing and 10% locking.

A question pops into my head.... You are removing the oil cooler, so how will you combat high oil temperatures ? Is a deeper oil pan in the plan ? Going to shy away from rides to Arizona in August, or what ? Nothing personal, just my inquisitive nature.

I have no earthly idea !

If the thought of oil leaking around the tube threads makes you loose sleep, then I'd suggest a thin sealer, such as LocTite 510 or 428. These are anaerobic sealers that work like the thread lockers, but do 90% sealing and 10% locking.

A question pops into my head.... You are removing the oil cooler, so how will you combat high oil temperatures ? Is a deeper oil pan in the plan ? Going to shy away from rides to Arizona in August, or what ? Nothing personal, just my inquisitive nature.

I never had a cooler on my '77 RS that was fully faired. I'm thinking it came that way from the factory. I bought it almost new. Wish I hadn't let it go. This '81 is a naked bike. It lost the fairing before I bought it. No trips to Arizona planned. I don't think I'll have problems with cooling. It's just a real problem changing filters with the oil cooler. Never had problems with the simpler non-cooler system. Half the time, I have to do the job over again with leaking oil due to pinching or crimping gaskets or rubber rings.

Re: Loctite: I wasn't worried about oil leaking around the threads. I was worried about another problem getting the long pipe out. Thanks again for your help.

Re: Loctite: I wasn't worried about oil leaking around the threads. I was worried about another problem getting the long pipe out. Thanks again for your help.

With tools like the ones we already discussed, the presence of any thread locking product will be a moot point. That tube is going to come out !

I just got the tools from UPS. Fast service. Looks like great tools too. Finished as well as Snap On or MAC. Thanks again for the help. I didn't know this company existed.

With tools like the ones we already discussed, the presence of any thread locking product will be a moot point. That tube is going to come out !

Looks like we were both wrong. I got busy with my attempt to change the pipe today. It looks like someone has tried it before. It has to be Loctited in, and the slots were already buggered, and my new tools just cammed out in spite of being hollow ground. I didn't help it any with my attempt to get it off.

On top of that, I somehow cross threaded the screws to the oil filter cover trying to get it back on. That did it for me, It's a parts bike now; although, it would run well if I could get oil back in it. My wife didn't want me riding it anymore anyway.

I'm going to offer it to the guys on the forum first.

I want to thank you for trying to help me with various things wrong with my bike.

I surely would not scrap a bike for that reason. Where are you? Your profile doesn't indicate.

I surely would scrap a bike for that reason. Where are you? Your profile doesn't indicate.

I appreciate your help. I gave the bike to someone locally. It's not being scraped. He's going to fix it.

I'm out of BMW ownership after 38 years. This was the first airhead I couldn't change the oil on myself. That was the reason I was trying to get rid of the oil cooler.in the first place.

It's no reflection on you or this forum. However, if an oil filter is that hard to change, it's a reflection on the design.

I still have dreams of riding. Maybe I'll find a /5 somewhere that's easier to work on than this bike was.

Well, dang !! I would have swapped you a 1979 model R100 with an RS fairing, but without an oil cooler, for your bike. I know the oil cooler adds a lot of complication and trouble. I really feel for your loss.

BTW, the cross-threaded hole is an easy 10 minute fix.

Thanks Wobbly. If I ever get back into BMW's, it would be with an older 750...without an oil cooler!!!