• The hardest part of changing tubeless tires is breaking the old tire free and... working it off the rim without damaging the rim. Tubeless rims have a recess that holds the bead in place in case the tire runs low on air. Those recesses work against you unless you have a tremendous mechanical advantage. There is a lever assisted tool used in older shops called a "bead breaker". If you don't have one of those you can stand your wheel (valve stem removed) in a bench vice (or use a giant C-clamp) with adequate jaw opening and squeeze the old tire just a hair below the rim. One or both beads will break loose. A tubeless is just like the older tires in that once the bead breaks free in one place, the rest of the bead pops right off.

• Alloy rims are easily damaged and the condition of the rim's bead is directly proportional to its ability to hold air, so use the tire tools sparingly. Rubber hammers applied to the sidewall are greatly preferred over digging at the bead with a tool. Tire tools need to be wide, flat and smooth.

• I carefully inspect the valve stem at each tire change, but have never (yet) needed to replace a street bike valve stem. Any damage is going to be to the outside so it's easy to have a new stem ready ahead of time.

• You will want a REALLY good tire lubricant. Silicone and WD-40 no longer cut the mustard. And forget about soapy water. I finally bought a gallon of professional tire mounting lube for a whopping $6. It was so much slicker than all the others I kicked myself for delaying that purchase.

• Don't forget to obey the tire's direction arrows! Before dismounting, use a marker to put a rotation arrow on the brake disc.

• The painted dot on the tire side wall is always aligned with the valve stem.

• Some wider tires may need help making the initial seal so that they can begin filling with air. A common tie-down strap tightened around the circumference of the tire will bow the beads outward, helping the them to make that initial contact.

• Even with good lube, tubeless tires fit so much tighter on the rim you may need extra air pressure to seat the bead. Do not proceed until the tire is completely "popped out".

• BMW wheel bearings and seals have too much drag to properly balance the wheel statically. I use a special set of bearings kept only for wheel balancing that are sized to fit the axle. These extra clean bearings allow the wheel to rotate with just a breeze. I use self adhesive wheel weights from the LAPS.

Hope these ideas help.

There are a lot of videos on YouTube about this subject, most of them are trash. Either they fight the wheel on the floor or in the dirt, or they use the tire tools WAY too much. Almost all of them work way too hard to accomplish their goal. It doesn't have to be that way.

Save yourself a LOT of perspiration and get the wheel up at the proper working height. The very best tire changing stand is a 35 gal oil drum with a length of slit-open garden hose placed around the lip to protect spokes and cast wheels. Simple, cheap, highly effective.

However, I have learned some tricks from a few of these videos...
• Insert pieces of plastic milk jug between the rim and the tire tool to protect painted or highly polished rims.

• When you install the new tire, if the bead is well lubed, you can actually throw the tire onto the rim !! It's easy and keeps the tools away from the rim. Watch... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yr0ZIp1iXoc