Talk about a complicated brake design! I think I have a way to adjust them when the book method doesn't work very well. And I can't be the first to figure this out. Look down at the top the rotor and apply the brake. Look for movement between the rotor and the fork leg. Make a simple indicator that amplifies these movements -- I used two thin wooden wedges for door and window installation taped to the rotor 90 degrees apart so that one points closely to the fender's edge at 12 o'clock and the other at 3 o'clock. Any movement here indicates misalignment of the two pads, the moveable and the stationary. You are seeing pressure that should be going to the rotor instead going into spreading and twisting the rotor and fork leg. Try fitting your fingers between the rotor and fork leg. Feel the movement? This also indicates the wasted pressure that isn't being applied to the pads. Use the book method to begin the adjustment then this way to fine tune the excentric pin on the bottom of the fork leg. I made an adjuster that fit in to the pin's hollow which helped quite a bit. Why is this brake so difficult to adjust and why so enemic? When I studied the brake I saw a geometrical puzzle with a circle having an exccentric center and a radius that terminates on the circumference with two parallel lines cutting through that circumference. Built in a perfect assembly line this design might work well........but tolerances and material irregularities don't always allow it. I wish I had the computer skill to have the pictures to go with this piece.