Check that the float needles haven't adhered themselves to the float seats. That's my best guess, since the passageways are fairly large and the float needles aren't pulled open, as on other brands of carbs.

If the float needles have been in there awhile, then you might want to replace them. The reason they might stick is the same reason they might need replacing.... they are viton tipped. This soft elastomer compound takes a set after long service and won't seal as well.

In the future, drain the tank and float bowls of all fuel for storage. You'll be lucky if the idle and choke circuits aren't clogged with stale fuel.

Hope this helps.

Thanks for the reply, Wobbly. The floats, in the up position, hit a small pin. I'm assuming this is the float needle. These move freely up and down on both carburetors. I primed both bowls with gas today, and the engine fired right up; but, of course, died because I wasn't getting fuel to the bowls. So, I'm guessing I have a clogged fuel inlet on both sides. Fuel flows freely from the main tank when I take the hoses off the carburetors. When I stored my cycle, I let the fuel run out. There was no fuel in either the fuel tank or the bowls when I took off the bowls. Not sure how my inlets got clogged, if that's actually what happened. I'm going to try to clean out my inlets with aceton and a catheter syringe using manual air pressure unless you have another suggestion. Thanks again.

This should go much easier now. WITH BOTH BOWLS REMOVED you can blow down the fuel lines toward both carbs with compressed air. The air will go where the fuel lines direct it, but since the fuel flows with gravity, the compressed air is more forceful in its approach.

If there was no fuel in the tank or cap on the tank, then you could also blow air up through the petcocks to clear the screens and other obstructions going the other direction.

Thanks for your note about fuel flow from the tank, because the number 2 problem area is the elastomer sealing disc inside the petcock itself. These can get rotated inside the petcock and stop all flow at normal petcock lever positions.

Hope this helps.

I'll post how this goes once I get all my equipment together. Thanks again for the help.

Yesterday, I got back to fixing my carbs after taking a little break for cataract surgery. I finally got the float needles unstuck or a least, I think, the Viton tips unstuck, by using an irrigation syringe and new gasoline. My first attempt was to blow out the the line to the carbs with the irrigation syringe and air, but the tips got stuck again. I was going to try acetone next, but decided to use new gas instead. The carbs seem to be working fine. The Viton tips were apparently stuck due to sitting with old gas. I sprayed the combustion with carb cleaner, and the bike came to life and stayed running. Of course, other problems have arose. I need to replace my gas lines, and I need a new gasket on one of my bowls. Leaks badly. I also need to figure out how to adjust the idle. Seems to want to die at idle.

I sure am glad I got it running again. I may even get to ride it this year.

Thanks for the help, Wobbly.

Jim -
That's really great news and I'm so happy for you !!

► The new fuels are not anything like the gasoline we grew up using. They refuse to remain in a usable form for longer than about 6 weeks without stabilizers, and even then it's tricky. The ethanol separates from the gasoline when it sits which attracts water, and does lots of damage in turn. Even "ethanol free" is only minimally better since EPA has changed the formulations on all fuels. Cars typically have fewer problems because their fuel injection system are pressurized. But gravity-fed carburetors take a direct hit on the chin when you allow fuel to "age" in the bike.

Next time simply drain the fuel tank and remove the float bowls. It sounds like a lot of work, but it's far less work than what you've been through.

► You really shouldn't need to re-set the idle. Once the bike is ridden and fully warmed up, the idle will return to its previous good humor.

Several things are working against you in these mini-running sessions. The oil never warms and thus never thins out. The engine, due to running at low speeds, has accumulated a load of soot. The valves and rings, despite your very best efforts, are allowing the engine to loose compression. The very best thing you could do for the "old girl" is to take her out for a spin long enough to allow her to completely warm up. Preferably using speeds in excess of 50 MPH.

Once warm, check the idle mixture screws to each be about 1-1/2 turns out, and set the idle speed screws to suit.

► Even if your eye condition wont allow you to make this ride now, there must be someone in the Club you trust enough to come by and do this warm-up for you.

Hope to see you on the road soon. 🙂