Thank you Scot for your very helpful insights and comments.

My reason for taking on this job is primarily preventative. I'm trying to get this bike in shape enough to take on long cross country trips - and the more problems I can head off before I go, the fewer I'll have to face on the road. And of course, familiarity breeds reliability - the more parts on the bike I touch, the more I'll be prepared to handle problems on the road.

With the only modification of installing a high capacity AGM battery, I've only observed two issues that may pertain to the bike's charging system. 1) The dash voltmeter doesn't go back to a lower indicated voltage after a period of highway riding. I would think it would drop once the voltage regulator detects that the battery has been charged. 2) The dash voltmeter swings when operating the turn signals.

My plan is to renew as many parts as practical with new OEM parts showing wear. So far my parts lists include all the wires connected to the alternator and diode board, alternator brushes (the complete assembly), the voltage regulator, and the diode board. I haven't made a final decision about the diode board mounts yet, but I'm inclined to use all 4 (new) rubber mounts. However I plan to pay particular attention to grounding. I have a new "spider" wire that grounds the diode board to the timing chest and engine block - but I'm considering making a much beefier version of my own.

I don't understand your suggestion of grounding the lower diode board mounts to the stator housing. The diode board lower mounts are insulated and have no conductivity to the diode board itself. If metal mounts are used on the lower mounts - then grounding these mounts to the stator housing would be simply grounding the timing chest cover to the stator housing- bypassing the diode board. That doesn't make sense as the stator housing is mounted to the timing chest cover.

I'm pretty sure the stock 280W provided by the stock charging system will meet my needs - and plan to heed your advice about large capacity charging components - and use the savings for new tires for my long rides.

Rubber mounts will eventually fail and have to be replaced more importantly they don't dissipate heat which increases the odds of diode board failure. You may need to heat and bend a 8mm wrench and use tape to hold the nut but it's worth the trouble.

^^ That ^^, or you could take another approach. Here are 2 suggestions...

► One item that needs inspection (for possible replacement) at around 60K miles is the cam timing chain. This job is an easy "home mechanic" type job and involves removing the front engine cover. With the cover in your hand, converting the 4 diode board standoffs to all-metal is an easy job. You will need one BMW tool, the alternator rotor puller bolt, which is one tool that should be in your travel kit anyway.

Parts for that job include the crankshaft o-ring, the camshaft oil seal, cover gasket, chain, movable chain tensioner blade, and (most importantly) the updated and stronger tensioner spring. About $35 total from BMW Max.

► One reason for the discoloration is the heat created by the electrical current the alternator and diode board are having to handle. You can cut the amount of current being consumed by converting all your bulbs to LED. And the biggest current consuming bulb is the H4 headlamp. When you cut the current consumption you'll also be cutting the temperatures the alternator and diode board are seeing. LED bulbs will also have fewer issues while you're on the road.

BTW: Motorrad Elektrik sells the All Metal Diode Board Standoff Kit

Just some things to think about.

I'm trying to get this bike in shape enough to take on long cross country trips - and the more problems I can head off before I go, the fewer I'll have to face on the road. [snip] With the only modification of installing a high capacity AGM battery...

Just finished reading on the Motorrad Eliktrik web site yesterday about their High Voltage Regulator product. Most people might buy this to get better charging at low RPM, but a secondary aspect of this regulator is that it's set to a slightly higher charge voltage that sealed AGM batteries prefer.

A standard regulator will work fine on an AGM as far as general riding, but the battery simply won't have the longevity or all the cranking power it's capable of delivering.

From their web site..... http://motoelekt.com/charging.htm

It does maintain the battery at a higher 14.2 voltage than the stock regulator allows, which is closer to the designed best operating voltage of the entire electrical system and gives more reserve in the battery.

I just ordered one of these from Rick James, and thought you'd want a look-see. It appears as if the unit can be tweaked for use with your specific battery's voltage requirements. Sure hope you saved the paperwork that came with the battery.

I bought the same from EME a few months back for my Odyssey AGM. Works great. Just some small tweaks of the adjuster to get it to proper running voltage. I am at a pretty consistent 14.7V when running at 3500 or so RPM. Took no more than 10 minutes to install and most of that was getting the tank off and on. Not a bad $20 investment in my opinion.

Yes, exact same part. I usually prefer Rick, but after I ordered a friend pointed out that EME was $10 cheaper.

:angry:

I agree with honoring loyalty, as you probably have with Rick, and that to me is worth a measly $10. I've always had a great experience with EME from day one so unless that changes or they don't carry what I need, I'll stick by their side. Rick does have some fun stuff I may just think about blowing my weekly allowance on!!!!

Thank you. I also have the Odyssey PC680 AGM. I mounted this unit yesterday and was able to tweak the charge voltage up to 14.7V.

Just got this message from Mr. Bruce Essig at Odyssey Energy Solutions in response to a query....

Essig, Bruce
9:33 AM (12 hours ago)

We would suggest 14.5V.

Sent from my iPad

So it's take the tank back off and tweak it once again !

Don't take off the tank. You should be able to reach it with a long screw driver. Lay on your back and get a light up there. You'll see it. Just watch those pipes!!!!!

I'm so old now, if I lay on my back I just go to sleep !!

😛