You should be able to slide everything enough to fit the push rod seals into place without having to remove anything.  

IF you don't have room to slide them in, I suggest leaving the rings and stuff in place and removing the wrist pin.   It is far easier to leave all the rings intact as they are.

Just be aware if your bike has the spring clips securing the wrist pins, to take steps so they don't go flying.  If you have snap rings, you are lucky.   St.

• Thank you. I was thinking I should replace the base gasket while doing the job, although it’s not leaking now . This would need the piston removed. Should I leave that gasket as is? I do have the spring clips.   I thought I would need a tool to press the wrist pin out (and back in) along with freezing the wrist pin.  Is that correct?  I just thought using a ring compression tool ould save that trouble...thanks again ! 6

Forgive me, I forgot you have a base gasket to deal with.  So yes, remove the jugs and replace it.  

You only need to remove one side spring clip on the wrist pin and the wrist pin will slide out.  No heating, freezing or beating needed, LOL.  Just remember to protect your eyes when removing the clip, they can be springy.  St.

Thank you for all of your advise!

You are welcome,  good luck, St.

I would pull the piston because that's the only way to check the piston rings. Let's not forget we're talking about a 1972 model, so ring end gap is very likely to be rather large... leading to excessive (more than it needs to be) oil consumption. 

You'll feel like a fool if you spend $80+ dollars on just the top end gaskets, then the bike smokes or consumes oil and it all has to come back apart... along with the purchase of yet another set of $80 top end gaskets.

Shortcuts always run up against Murphy's Law. Don't do it. 

Thank you for your advise; that's why I posed the question!  The bike only shows 25000 miles which I believe may be correct.  The bike is in phenomenal condition.   It's not burning oil and never smokes.  My thinking was that pulling the piston is easier than removing the wrist pin and leaving it in.  Again, I have never done this job and am looking for any advice I can get.  Please let me know if you have any further advice. 

Thanks again!

Let's not forget that to "pull the wrist pin" you may need to heat the piston with a torch. That would be a fun job with the cylinder still attached.

For a small job ring compressor you can use a screw-type radiator hose clamp. Those are cheap and easy to use. Tighten until "snug", then back off 1/2 turn.

So do you really think the ring gap is going to be so bad at 25K miles? There was no mention of smoking or oil use so so I will stick to the advice of just sliding things and not messing with the rings.   

Forgive me but I was under the impression the fellow wanted to replace push rod seals.   Not sure why he wanted to replace the head gasket?    Everything will slide intact the head gasket doesn't have to be disturbed. 

And to be honest, you may not even have to remove the wrist pin, the Head, jug and pistons may slide forward enough to insert the push rod seals.  

Funny I have never had to heat a wrist pin to slide one out. Good luck with what ever you do. St,

Thanks again for the replies!  It's not so much the head gasket I was thinking of but the base gasket on the /5 would (should) be replaced after removing the cylinder- is that correct? Again I appreciate all the input on this topic to replace the pushrod seals.  I have seen several videos on how this is done using both methods, and wanted to see how the members here recommend doing it.   Thank you all and I appreciate any additional advice!

Sorry for my mental lapse, I forgot you have a base gasket.  In that case, I would remove the wrist pin, to take things off and replace it.  I still would not mess with the rings and stuff.  If it ain't broke don't fix it.  St.