Here's the question. How can I hack this? I'm thinking of connecting the three way switch straight to the battery (maybe through a relay) cut into the switch and patch in L/R grips and hope that works. I don't know how the actual parts fit, and I'm missing the middle wires.

Common items (like fog lights) include a relay in the circuit because the current is too much for the harness and/or ignition switch to handle. That may not be the case with low wattage grip heaters. IMHO, the reason for the relay is to turn OFF the grips when the ignition sw is also turned OFF.

• Power through the relay contacts can come directly from the battery, but you'll want to include a fuse in that new wire. Power to the relay coil would need to come from any spare Green terminals inside the headlamp. That will insure the grips are OFF when the ignition is OFF.

• So the power wiring physically lines up in this order: Battery, Fuse, Relay contacts, Hi/Lo switch, Grip heaters.

• Return ("ground") for the Relay Coil and Grip Heaters can be had on the spare Brown terminals inside the headlamp shell.

Hope this helps.

Yes - Thanks Wobbly for your answers.

Here's what I'm thinking. Yes add the relay. Yes go Green line into the Connection Block in the headlight bucket. Yes also ground there (brown). So I think there's no need to go to the battery. Does this drawing make sense?

So I think there's no need to go to the battery. Does this drawing make sense?

Pulling power from the Green wire doesn't make any sense to me for several reasons...
1) You haven't given us the wattage of the heaters. Minimum grip heaters is around 24W for Low setting. So at a minimum that's an additional 2A load on the harness and ignition switch.
2) The Green wire is before the protection of the stock fuses, so if it's too much load for the harness or ignition switch you'll simply start melting parts. An ignition sw is $150, and a harness is close to $300.
3) Green also powers the ignition. If you upset any part of the Green circuit you'll be pushing the bike home.

Also...
• You have a 2 position heater switch, but your grips are single wattage. What's going on there ?
• You have a fuse, why not use it to protect the relay too ?
• Your grips show the "ground symbol" but where is that physical point of return ?

Just some stuff to think about.
All the best !

OK, remember... I don't know what I'm doing, but it's fun trying 😉

Here's a totally different approach. Stay out of headlight bucket entirely. Pull the power off the battery and just run the grips on their own.

Thanks for the advice!

I don't know how "invested" you are at this point in the OEM grips. However, I strongly recommend that you forget those and go with a new, BETTER Oxford set of heated grips. They are not expensive, are more efficient and anyone can install them easily.

+1 on the Oxfords too, if you aren't to invested as 632 said. The hardest part is just running the wiring to look as clean as possible, but that is because I have a strong hatred for exposed wires. Still only took about a hour to dry fit and then permanently install them. Worth the consideration.

Pulling power from the Green wire doesn't make any sense to me for several reasons...

Me either. DO NOT pull voltage directly off ANYthing inside the headlight. You'll need to run this thru, as has been said, a Fused wire off the battery or better yet a new fuse panel.

the #14 minimum gage wire to a fuse to #30 post on relay.
#85 to ground.
#86 goes to a powered switch to turn on the grips. I would buy an after market heated grip regulator.
https://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/oxford-heaterz-heated-grips-temp-controller?gclid=Cj0KCQjwh6XmBRDRARIsAKNInDGqq-5kCvvzTPjY_2-cq45F6vjvjVReWo8AB6MYfWyeh3j6Mypgu54aArj0EALw_wcB

#87 goes to both grips. This would be the correct way of adding a 1 form C type Bosch 4 / 5 spade relay

http://www.canyonchasers.net/shop/generic/in-bar-grips.php
........ ideas only

https://www.thewarmingstore.com/warm-n-safe-relay-and-fuse-for-grips-seats.html?productid=warm-n-safe-relay-and-fuse-for-grips-seats&channelid=FROOG&utm_source=CSE&utm_medium=GoogleShopping&utm_campaign=SolidCactus&gclid=Cj0KCQjwh6XmBRDRARIsAKNInDFAfTeCgAZlRDViklnZGgNGaY0ZnIKhAn3AP2I95_IXm8ur2c1ilw4aAlo4EALw_wcB

As done on my RS:

Pulling power from the Green wire doesn't make any sense to me for several reasons...

Me either. DO NOT pull voltage directly off ANYthing inside the headlight. you'll need to run this thru as has been said a Fused wire off the battery or better yet a new fuse panel.

the #14 minimum gage wire to a fuse to #30 post on relay.
#85 to ground.
#86 goes to a powered switch to turn on the grips. I would buy an after market heated grip regulator.
https://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/oxford-heaterz-heated-grips-temp-controller?gclid=Cj0KCQjwh6XmBRDRARIsAKNInDGqq-5kCvvzTPjY_2-cq45F6vjvjVReWo8AB6MYfWyeh3j6Mypgu54aArj0EALw_wcB

#87 goes to both grips. this would be the correct way of adding a 1 form C type bosch 4 / 5 spade relay

http://www.canyonchasers.net/shop/generic/in-bar-grips.php .......... ideas only

https://www.thewarmingstore.com/warm-n-safe-relay-and-fuse-for-grips-seats.html?productid=warm-n-safe-relay-and-fuse-for-grips-seats&channelid=FROOG&utm_source=CSE&utm_medium=GoogleShopping&utm_campaign=SolidCactus&gclid=Cj0KCQjwh6XmBRDRARIsAKNInDFAfTeCgAZlRDViklnZGgNGaY0ZnIKhAn3AP2I95_IXm8ur2c1ilw4aAlo4EALw_wcB

on my RS :

Pulling power from the Green wire doesn't make any sense to me for several reasons...

Me either. DO NOT pull voltage directly off ANYthing inside the headlight. you'll need to run this thru as has been said a Fused wire off the battery or better yet a new fuse panel.

the #14 minimum gage wire to a fuse to #30 post on relay.
#85 to ground.
#86 goes to a powered switch to turn on the grips. I would buy an after market heated grip regulator.
https://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/oxford-heaterz-heated-grips-temp-controller?gclid=Cj0KCQjwh6XmBRDRARIsAKNInDGqq-5kCvvzTPjY_2-cq45F6vjvjVReWo8AB6MYfWyeh3j6Mypgu54aArj0EALw_wcB

#87 goes to both grips. this would be the correct way of adding a 1 form C type bosch 4 / 5 spade relay

http://www.canyonchasers.net/shop/generic/in-bar-grips.php .......... ideas only

https://www.thewarmingstore.com/warm-n-safe-relay-and-fuse-for-grips-seats.html?productid=warm-n-safe-relay-and-fuse-for-grips-seats&channelid=FROOG&utm_source=CSE&utm_medium=GoogleShopping&utm_campaign=SolidCactus&gclid=Cj0KCQjwh6XmBRDRARIsAKNInDFAfTeCgAZlRDViklnZGgNGaY0ZnIKhAn3AP2I95_IXm8ur2c1ilw4aAlo4EALw_wcB

on my RS :

Pulling power from the Green wire doesn't make any sense to me for several reasons...

Me either. DO NOT pull voltage directly off ANYthing inside the headlight. you'll need to run this thru as has been said a Fused wire off the battery or better yet a new fuse panel.

the #14 minimum gage wire to a fuse to #30 post on relay.
#85 to ground.
#86 goes to a powered switch to turn on the grips. I would buy an after market heated grip regulator.
https://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/oxford-heaterz-heated-grips-temp-controller?gclid=Cj0KCQjwh6XmBRDRARIsAKNInDGqq-5kCvvzTPjY_2-cq45F6vjvjVReWo8AB6MYfWyeh3j6Mypgu54aArj0EALw_wcB

#87 goes to both grips. this would be the correct way of adding a 1 form C type bosch 4 / 5 spade relay

http://www.canyonchasers.net/shop/generic/in-bar-grips.php .......... ideas only

https://www.thewarmingstore.com/warm-n-safe-relay-and-fuse-for-grips-seats.html?productid=warm-n-safe-relay-and-fuse-for-grips-seats&channelid=FROOG&utm_source=CSE&utm_medium=GoogleShopping&utm_campaign=SolidCactus&gclid=Cj0KCQjwh6XmBRDRARIsAKNInDFAfTeCgAZlRDViklnZGgNGaY0ZnIKhAn3AP2I95_IXm8ur2c1ilw4aAlo4EALw_wcB

on my RS :