On my 1976 R90/6 the generator light flickers after 1,000 - 1,500 RPMs and it's not running on both cylinders. Bike sat for a year. I put gas in the tank and it started OK. Idles fine but can't get it to run smoothly over 1/8 throttle.
It has an older electronic ignition to replace the points. I wonder if the timing is bad and causes this pulsing/flickering gen light and poor running.
thanks
When we put any vehicle back on the road after a long sit there is a initial installment of work... replace battery, replace tires, change oil, etc. The common, sensible stuff. Then we go ride the bike to make a proper assessment about (actually to bring out) what the direction of the follow-on phases of work will be. (e.g. Will it be the braking system, electrical system or is it suspension and road holding issues ?) Riding the bike reveals where to turn our attention next.
From your description it sounds like that when the bike cranked up after sitting for so long, that you assumed you had "dodged the bullet" and everything was going to be OK. Nothing could be further from the truth. There's more to do; riding ALWAYS reveals more. Sometimes it's faults the PO never took the time to repair. Sometimes it's new issues brought on by storage. Sometimes it's faults introduced by our lack of knowledge of the new machine. It doesn't matter, they all need to be fixed.
► More to your question... Alternator output is a function of engine RPM, alternator brush quality, wiring quality, battery connection, and voltage regulator. 99% of the time the blinking light is only a symptom (an indicator) of the underlying issue. That's where we start.
1. Here's a list of the things that should have been done during the initial work phase:
2. I would simply replace the mechanical VR with a modern solid state one (~$15). I would also replace the alternator bushes. (~$4) These units are both so cheap they are not worth testing. Just do it.
3. First suspect is the carbs. Both need to be disassembled for needle and needle jet inspection. Total replacement of these 4 parts is preferable. This work also includes air filter replacement and inspection/cleaning of the starter motor cavity. It's also mandatory to run a name brand high octane fuel with cleaning additives.
4. A simple tune-up which must include: valve adjustment AND ignition timing by strobe lamp at 4500+ RPM. (Ignition timing at idle is NOT permissible.)
5. Then comes treating the connectors, relays and terminals (every electrical termination) with an anti-oxidation compound, such as No-Ox-Id by Sanchem. 48 years of water intrusion into the electrical sys requires it.
6. Next might be replacing both metal-core plug wires and 5K Ohm plug caps.
Once you get to the end of that list we can start talking about specifics. Best wishes and good luck.
Owning an old Airhead is easy.
Keeping an old Airhead running great is the true test.
Item number 5 is covered in detail here...
Owning an old Airhead is easy.
Keeping an old Airhead running great is the true test.
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