First of all, there are several different length clutch cables available. Unless you're using the stock bars, the stock cable may not allow the best fit. If a different length is required, you might want to talk to a live person rather than order a number over the internet. Bob's BMW is tops with the phone requests in my book.

Replacing the cable is easy and straightforward. I find it much easier to take the lower end off first. To do this requires forcing the clutch throw arm forward to gain enough slack to slip the cable end off. To do this, I use a common wooden hammer handle inserted between the frame and lever. With the base of the handle resting on the clutch arm, pulling rearward on the hammer head moves the arm to the disengage position. The wood won't scratch the frame, and 12" allows good leverage to make the work easy. Then take off the handlebar end of the cable last.

Re-installation starts with lubing the new cable right out of the box (if required). Then insert a dollop of waterproof grease (e.g. white lithium) up inside the lever for the cable end barrel. I also lube the clutch pivot bolt with motorcycle chain lube. Route the new cable onto the bike. Fit the lever-end adjuster, and insert the lever-end into the lever. Install the lower-end boot and fit the housing into the gearbox case socket. Get out the hammer one more time, and Bing! she's on.

Then follow the instructions on proper free-play in the clutch arm and cable.

PS. If your cable broke at the lever, then it was caused by flexing the hardened steel cable. What's supposed to happen is the barrel is supposed to rotate inside the lever. The addition of waterproof lube inside the barrel socket, along with the correct cable free play, will restore this rotation and keep the new cable from breaking.

🙂

Thanks for the information

just cause, I can :
I safety wired the lower cable LOOSLY to the arm ..

Thanks for all the input. I got a chance to put the new one on using your input and it went on nice and easy and works great.