This is a follow up on the referenced post. In that post, @Wobbly queried whether or not I had lubed the throttle cables. I remarked that I had seen several references (including Snowbum's) to "lined' cables being the norm these days.
Now I'm in possession of BMW cables and was about to get started on the project. Out comes the trusty Clymer's Manual (R50/5 through R100GS PD) and a bit of reading before getting started. I note that in the "cable replacement" portion of the manual (Page 364, para 10.) Clymer's refers to section 3 and remarks that the new cables should be lubricated. The part numbers for the cables are 32 73 1 454 584 and 585. There is no evidence that these cables are lined - unlike the clutch cable where you can clearly see a bit of plastic liner projecting out of the transmission end of the cable assembly. I have called the parts counter at my local BMW shop and the parts guy has no idea.
I'm thinking that; seeing as these are original equipment cables, purchased recently, that I should be paying attention to Snowbum's remarks that these cables do not require lubrication. I have a cable lube device in my toolkit, however, I'll wait on the collective wisdom before doing anything. Here's the direct quote from Snowbum's website
- "5. Lubricating BMW cables....lubrication attracts abrasive dirt and may swell the liner (a nylon-like material). Only the very earliest original-as-shipped /5 cables were not lined." (italics are mine)
That seems to pretty definitive, but worth checking.
Common sense isn't very common, any more.
Since most of my experience is not in the context of BMW, I'll withhold comment on the lube.
However, there is an R75/6 under my care right now with a very sticky throttle which I have traced to 1) old lubrication in the twist grip assy, and 2) VERY stiff carb return springs. I see in the archives that an address was given for softer return springs, so this must have been a common experience back in the day.
Owning an old Airhead is easy.
Keeping an old Airhead running great is the true test.
We're on the same page. It's been quite some time since I soldered up my last Triumph cable - those sure needed to be lubed. The BMW sources I've seen all remark that lubing is no longer required. In fact, evidently it can be detrimental.
I'm going to post another cable tale of woe, but that will have to wait until tomorrow as I'm on my way out the door for the night.
Cheers,
March
Common sense isn't very common, any more.
A little follow-up for those who'd like some background...
Asked my boss about this, because I was absent from the motorcycle scene (busy earning my engineering degree) when these type cables were introduced. His dad's shops sold about every motorcycle known to man (BSA, BMW, Guzzi, Ducati, Honda, Norton, Royal Enfield, etc), and so he's been to every factory school offered since 1960. I say all that to point out that he's a fairly knowledgeable fellow.
His take on it was that back in the day, everyone used a product called Dri-Slide, which was loaded with molybdenum granules in an oil carrier. They had about 80% of the market, so it was fairly ubiquitous. In his opinion it was only Dri-Slide that caused the problems. He's not sure if it was the molybdenum or their particular oil carrier, but he's seen cables that you could pull in the clutch lever and the lever would stay pulled in !! The cable would actually seize in position. He simply stopped using Dri-Slide and the issue went away. He still lubricates all his cables, and 90% of his fleet of motorcycles are ridden in the dirt (TT, flat track, motocross, etc) on a weekly basis (340 races last year) and none of them have cable issues.
Not positive proof, but still interesting. Maybe someone with a chemical background could look into teflon and molybdenum.
B)
Owning an old Airhead is easy.
Keeping an old Airhead running great is the true test.
1) old lubrication in the twist grip assy,
i use the product ''Lubriplate'' lube on the twist tube.
i lube NON teflon cables. the next set of throttle cables I make will be teflon lined. then I can compare the two I made to see which works easier.
ATF or any one of the million WD-40 like thin oil penetrants.
Owning an old Airhead is easy.
Keeping an old Airhead running great is the true test.
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