I have a defective BMW quartz clock by motometer that is trying to work. If I look at the second hand I can see a very slight deflection every second but not enough movement to move the second hand to its next interval. I remember reading somewhere about the disassembly of the clock but cannot find the article. If anyone knows the whereabouts of the article or has knowledge of removing the bezel without destroying it, I would be appreciative. Also, if anyone has any idea what is causing this condition and corrective action that needs to be taken I would appreciate hearing from you.
I once started a hobby in watch repair... which didn't last long, but I did learn some basics.
The quartz movement has only something like 7 moving parts, and is fairly indestructible. If the second hand is trying, then you probably got some water in there that put a touch of rust on one of the shafts. Once the movement is free of the housing, you can carefully wash the assembled movement off with alcohol or acetone... something that will evaporate. (I would NOT advise disassembling the movement itself.) If you own an air brush, then you could blast the solvent on in a directed spray. The idea is to blast away old oxidized oil, dirt, mold, whatever is jamming the movement. (DO NOT wash the face of the clock.)
I highly suggest you re-connect the power during testing and forever after with a 1A fuse between the RED power line and the clock.
Once the movement is working, don't run it dry for long. You can apply 1/10th of a drop of silicone watch oil to each of the points of rotation with a sewing needle. (Don't forget to oil the shafts for the second, minute and hour hands.) Don't use anything but silicone based lubricant due to the presence of humidity and wide temperature swings this clock experiences.
As to the bezel opening and closing, sorry I can't help with that.
The silicone lubricant is also really good on speedo and tach movements.
Owning an old Airhead is easy.
Keeping an old Airhead running great is the true test.
Hi Wobbly
I found an answer to my bezel removal problem. I Googled bmw motorcycle clock repair". I found a Flicker site titled "BMW motorcycle clock" It does not contain any written instructions but the photos give me everything I need to disassemble the unit. Thanks again for the tips on cleaning the interior parts. As you mentioned it probably only needs a little cleaning and lube.
Well since I helped you, why not help us with a link to the website you found ??
You're not the only one with a clock that needs repair ! 😛
Thanks !
Owning an old Airhead is easy.
Keeping an old Airhead running great is the true test.
Wobbly
I am not very literate with the computer link stuff ( I am an airhead remember) but the best I can do follows.
In your search box type "flickrbmwmotorcycleclockrepair"
-enter-
-step down to "images of flickr bmw motorcycle clock
repair"
click on first picture
on right hand column click on "bmw motorcycle
clock repair| flickr"
This should put you into an album with thirty photos of the disassembly of the clock. I could not find any audio or written instructions. I hope this helps.
Link...
https://www.flickr.com/photos/getproductions/sets/72157627860750305/
He's opened his clock to replace the two 100 micro farad capacitors. He gingerly pries the aluminum bezel open by going slowly around the rear of the bezel with a flat screwdriver. Then he un-solders the ground lead, and removes the 3 screws from the rear. The unit slides out of the housing.
The "caps" are un-soldered and the new units installed. The unit is tested.
Very interesting how he closes the unit. He wraps the bezel in masking tape. Then, with the unit sitting face-down on a layer of corrugated pasteboard, he slowly works his way back around the bezel with a small hammer and punch. He adds a new o-ring to cushion the fitting back into the dashboard or housing. The o-ring covers up any roughness or sharp edges on the rear of the bezel due to the imprecise nature of the closure method.
Thanks for that.
Owning an old Airhead is easy.
Keeping an old Airhead running great is the true test.
an alternate method to using a flat screwdriver is to take an old 'church key', grind down the sharp end ~1/8", then "sharpen" the left over tip a bit so it can grab the edge of the bezel. The bend in the church key gives you leverage to work around the edge of the bezel & slowly loosen it. I've done this with half a dozen clocks & voltmeters successfully. BTW - use an older thick metal church key vs a new tinny one.
That's a great tip. Thanks !
Owning an old Airhead is easy.
Keeping an old Airhead running great is the true test.
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