In addition to your plans, I like to cover my bike(s) with a couple of old bed sheets and place a few moth balls on and under the bike. I put a few in the tool tray, a couple on top of the cylinder bases and fish a few into the space on top of the air cleaner assembly/ starter cover under the fuel tank. Mice really like to nest in the air cleaner and starter cavity on top of the motor.

First winter for my new ride, a 1974 R90/6 I'm going to buy a battery tender - are they all the same or do you have any recommendations?

► The MOST important battery maintenance you can do is to disconnect the Negative lead from the battery. [Due to the special torque requirement of the gearbox breather bolt, do not disconnect the Negative cable at the gearbox end.] Doing it this way ends all the electrical losses due to running the clock (if present) and rectifier bleed-back. If the bike is to be kept in an unheated area, then remove the battery and take it into a heated basement where it can sit on a bench or shelf; any where except the floor.

► Once the cable is disconnected, you really only need to charge the battery 1 hour a month. Most well-meaning owners actually cook the battery to death by over-charging it through the winter. If you can't program a when-to-charge reminder on your phone, then go buy a fancy lamp timer that lets you program a very minimal charge time and plug the charger into that.

► If you insist on buying a charger, then the maximum DC output should be no higher than 1/10 the amp-hour rating of the battery. For instance if you have a 12AH battery, then the maximum charger output should be no higher than 1.2A. Note that AGM batteries require a higher float voltage than lead-acid, so they require special chargers.

Also, other than putting stable in the tank and topping it off and emptying the carbs - any must dos for the winter that you'd recommend?

► Due to ethanol in the fuel, all the old rules have changed. Even with Stabil, you should not leave any fuel in the vehicle. Empty the tank, and remove both float bowls. Turn the fuel taps both to ON and leave the fuel tank cap completely off, or propped open in case of the hinged models. The remaining fuel will evaporate before doing any damage. The open tank will not collect moisture since the pressures and temperatures are equalized inside and out.

► Do the same for any lawn mowers, weed whackers, chain saws, string trimmers which will not be used during the winter. The problem is not simply motorcycles, the fuel issue is the same for all small engines.

► If you must keep fuel for an emergency generator or chain saw, then it's much better to buy ethanol-free fuel and use a stabilizer in that. But do not pour the fuel in until it's needed.

Now I know a lot of you have used products like Stabil for years and have always gotten away with it. But if one does a cost vs. risk analysis it's simply not worth the risk. Rebuilding the carbs is going to require 2 hours minimum at shop rates ranging from $60 to $90 per. Then add 2 Bing carb rebuild kits and the price of the Stabil. Not to mention all the lost riding time while your bike sits in some repair shop until they can get to it. This versus 10 minutes to empty all the fuel.

Or you could simply ride the bike once a week. 🙂

Thanks Wobbly for the detailed feedback. I just filled the tank, damn it. It would be simpler if i could just ride it once a month. A couple more years of global warming and that's what i'll be doing in Milwaukee.

Thanks 8053. I'll stay ahead of the mice with your advice.

You could always keep your bike at my house. I could text you a photo once a week during the winter of me riding on the Natchez Trace, Blue Ridge Parkway, or some other pavement to paradise.

Always trying to help a buddy. 😛

Mice really like to nest in the air cleaner and starter cavity on top of the motor.

That's how most starter rebuilds begin: vacuuming out all the acorn hulls !! 😛

Still riding here in Asheville NC at 34F and falling. Took the Aprilia Scarabeo to work tonight. Probably ride an Airhead of the fleet tomorrow... no other reason than to keep the fuel flowing and not gumming up the system with that @$@$@$~! Alcohol laden crap they call gas.

Happily, I have the Pure Gas app on my phone. I can recommend it, and it's free. It shows you, wherever you may ride, were you can find Alcohol free fuel.

I still have all my airheads on trickle chargers - and SWMBO Triumph and Ducati too.