• The secret is really in the surface prep. You should remove ALL the old adhesive from the plaque and starter cover. Scour both parts really well so that the adhesive can grip. And then wipe down both parts with lacquer thinner or acetone to remove all traces of oil.

• Traditionally, I believe most shops have used 3M Weatherstrip Adhesive. You have to clean and scuff both surfaces. Then apply evenly to both parts and allow to set. Then press the 2 pieces together. Then allow it to cure. It works fairly well if you allow it all the cure times and it's done when the weather is fairly warm, like 70F.

• My last one I put on with double-sided commercial foam tape. I believe it was a 3M brand tape we got at Lowes or an auto parts store. It was like $15 for 3 feet... fairly expensive. This was much simpler becasue the tape came 1" wide, so all that had to be done was roll it out to the right length. When the plaque is applied you need to keep pressure on for about 1 minute.

► An alternate method would be to buy one of the starter covers with the plaques molded on. Those simply say "BMW", but the nameplate is part of the cover and can't ever come off. Used starter covers are a cheap item on Ebay becasue they never wear out, so there's not much demand. They are selling for less than used replacement name plates !

Thanks Wobbly
#7 in the diagram is a rubber mounting pad. There's got to be a recommended adhesive for this, but I don't find reference to it anywhere...Maybe contact cement?
I may end up trying the double-sided tape - How did yours do with the heat?
The 3M is totally out for that very reason - and that from my own painful experience,
Anybody else have a trick?

I think #7 IS the adhesive backing.

I feel your pain, brother. I did a repair on an R75/6 for an acquaintance. Got it running after long term storage. It was a "for free" job, donated to the son of a long time friend who had passed away. The son wanted to ride the BMW and have a piece of his father's motorcycle collection to help remember him by. I owed his dad big time for long-past favors.

After devoting about 2 weeks of time going over the entire bike, I thought it worked out OK. I had minimized my cost and was going to come out alright. The only parts I used were older spares sitting on the shelf, and a couple of items he found in his dad's garage.

So on the first test ride, I kicked off one of the float bowls. That cost me $45. Then I came back from the second test ride with a missing engine emblem ! That cost me an additional $90 !! Being a "nice guy" can be an expensive hobby. 😆

Anyway, the replacement emblem is still holding with double-sided foam tape after a year. That's all I can say. But I do happen to have a spare "R75/6" engine emblem if anyone needs one !!

You make a good point: #7 may come from BMW with adhesive already applied.
On both of my bikes, there's a rubber pad that sits in place of #7, probably an insulator against vibration.
Since you've been using double sided tape, I'll probably give that a shot.
Thanks for piping up, Wobbly.

I like Wobbly's idea of double-sided foam tape. That should work fine. Here is what used on my bike and so far, so good. This is the best contact cement I have ever worked with. It might be the same as the DAP stuff.

OK, I finally dug up the tape I used. Sorry it took so long. It's Scotch (3M) "Extreme Mounting Tape" and has a red backing and is 1" wide. This tape is also good for attaching flat, rim-mount type wheel weights.

Here's A Link With A Picture Of The Tape

3M Instructions

1. Make sure all surfaces are clean and dry. 2. Cut 2 inches of tape for every 1 pound. Do not remove protective liner yet. 3. Apply tape to back of object-press firmly on liner for good adhesive contact. 4. Remove liner and press object firmly into place on wall. Note: for optimal bond performance apply when temperature is between 70 degrees F and 100 degrees F. This is a permanent tape and may cause damage if removed. If you must remove the object, insert a knife behind the object and carefully cut the tape down the middle. Remove remaining tape with thumbnail. Not recommended for use on wallpaper and other delicate surfaces. Do not use in spaces where injury might occur if mounted object fell.

I don't know that this was the "best" solution, but it certainly was less messy than dealing with the stringy Weatherstrip Adhesive. And the foam backing easily conforms to surface irregularities. BUT, when you go to place it, you had better place that emblem EXACTLY where you want it, becasue you do NOT get a second chance.

Hope this helps.

I did take a look around for the plio-bond, but to no avail...Did, however, find that Gorilla makes a double sided tape as well...I'll do that task after I get it back together - maybe tomorrow afternoon.
Thanks ya guys

I’ve used high temperature silicone with great success

When using the 3M , ensure it is "Yellow SUPER Weatherstrip And Gasket Adhesive, Stage 2, AUTO Advanced. Anything else will not hold long-term. Have been doing upholstery work for over 40 years and I have found this to be superior to all other adhesives for this application.

Would a new style starter cover work with my clam shell air box. Does it fit up right?

The way to answer that is to go look at the part numbers on the on-line parts fiche for various starter covers. Compare the PN on the years before and after your model, and on similar models. A change in PN means the part changed. If the change isn't obvious, then you can conclude it's in the "fit".

How about the high temp JB Weld, as long as you don't ever want to take it off.