How do I safely remove the seal out of the slider? I have poked and pried a bit but the only thing that has come out is the round spring witch ain’t so round anymore, I don’t want to damage anything.
It's funny you should ask. I replaced the fork seals on a 1981 RT just last week !!
• Simply stick a 10-12" common flat blade screw driver ALL THE WAY under one side of the seal on the inside, and while pivoting on the other side of the fork leg, push downward. The seal will pop right out. You simply did not fully insert the blade to touch the fork leg.
• Installation is actually the more difficult part.
PART 1 Use a shop towel to wipe all excessive dirt and oil from the interior at the top of the fork leg. Find a socket wrench that fits the top of the seal and leg. (I believe I used the same 34mm socket used to remove the fork cap nuts.) The reason to do this is that the seal must be installed absolutely "square" with the fork leg. Pushing on the seal with a socket will push the seal down to a level flush with the top of the fork leg, but no further. If the seal is absolutely flush with the top of the leg, then it is square to the bore. Clamping the leg in a vise (at the axle boss) will stabilize the leg and make installation much easier.
PART 2 After you practice the installation several times, treat the fork leg seating area and the outside of the seal with a product named simply "P-80". HERE Once that is done you'll have about 30 seconds to push on the socket, and the seal will slide right into place using ONLY a light pressure. DO NOT hammer the seal into place. Check your work.
PART 3 Wet the outside of the fork stanchion AND the interior of the new seal with light grease or fork oil BEFORE assembly. Dry assembly may allow you to do this job again next week. Treat both sides of the new 2 sealing washers (10mm and 3mm) on the bottom of the fork leg with LocTite Gasket Maker (especially under the shoulder of the bolt head) to stop leaks at the bottom of the leg. HERE
NOTE: The LocTite Gasket Maker is so effective that you can leave the sealing washer off the main 10mm bolt if you'll completely cover under the bolt's head. However, the smaller drain bolt, due to physical interference with the internal spacer, MUST have a washer of some description to allow the drain bolt to fully seat. When using the LocTite product, the drain bolt will be very effectively held in place and only a very light torque (1 ft-lb) will be required to hold it in place and stop all leaks.
Hope this helps.
Owning an old Airhead is easy.
Keeping an old Airhead running great is the true test.
Best Practices
• Use real motorcycle fork oil, such as Bel-Ray 7W fork oil. Install 250cc in each leg, meaning 1 bottle is enough for 2 fork oil changes.
• While the stanchions are being worked on is an excellent time to check and replace the grease in the upper and lower head post bearings. This grease oxidizes, causing a rough or gritty feel to steering. The bearings are not ruined, in most cases they simply need cleaning and re-packing with fresh water-proof grease.
If you remove the top castle nut and drop the triple tree 6" you'll have more than enough room to work. I used WD-40 and a old toothbrush to scrub the 2 bearings and 2 races in-place, and loosen the old grease. High pressure compressed air helps tremendously. Then it's a simple job to re-pack and re-assemble. The castle nut has a pre-load torque in your workshop manual.
Owning an old Airhead is easy.
Keeping an old Airhead running great is the true test.
I repacked my head post bearings today. The grease was the consistency of bee wax or 100% lanolin. It was really strange. Anyway, removed the old grease with WD-40, a toothbrush and compressed air. Re-packed and back together in about 4 hours. Steers 100% better now.
Owning an old Airhead is easy.
Keeping an old Airhead running great is the true test.
I have a question, the intermediate spacer was used from 09/80 - 05/ 81. Mine did not have one at the bottom of the slider, and I would like to know what the spacer actually is , also it’s purpose.
I have a question, the intermediate spacer was used from 09/80 - 05/ 81. Mine did not have one at the bottom of the slider, and I would like to know what the spacer actually is , also it’s purpose.
The bottom spacer is a solid aluminum distance piece that effectively extends the length of the complete fork assy by roughly 1/2 inch. I suspect that later models didn't use it because they built that function into other parts, and thereby reduced production costs.
Owning an old Airhead is easy.
Keeping an old Airhead running great is the true test.
Thanks for the info, my bike was built May 31, thinking crap what bad luck going to have to order them, only 4 of them exist in the USA according to my info. But further investigation found that on the build sheet, this part was not used , so I am good to go without them 🙂
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