hi again - also where does get stainless steel brake line?

Lou, here's a provider I've used many times; good turn-around time; brass or stainless steel sleeved; works perfectly...

https://www.applehydraulicsonline.com/collections/motorcycles

D.

Posted by: @ipopeye

hello - i've tried to refurbish my ATE under-the-tank master cylinder by honing it and buying rebuild kit. no luck ! too much damage to the 14mm cylinder. any hints on where to get a used good one? or on how to convert to an on the handlebar type brake cylinder?  thanks!! Lou in New Hampshire

There are sources listed in the Airmail for sleeving your existing cylinder.

If it were me, I would send an e-mail to Tom Cutter. His business is called "Rubber Chicken Racing Garage". You would need to acquire the new master cylinder and the right side handle bar collar that holds the master cylinder. I don't think the /7 hand set is drilled for a handlebar master cylinder.  You might check with a used parts re-seller like Re-pscycle for the hand set. You may or may not need the throttle pull mechanism that goes with the new hand set, likewise with the lever. There may also be a transfer fitting that resides where the under the tank master cylinder was.

Another option would be to send your original master cylinder  to a shop that can re-sleeve the bore. I did that with a /7 and it worked out very well. Regrettably, the shop I used (vintage brake) is no longer in business.

I have had both, and I like the handlebar master cylinder because it is NOT hidden under the tank. That allows you to keep an eye on it.

Posted by: @ipopeye

hi again - also where does get stainless steel brake line?

I spent about 10 hours writing and refining an article on improving Airhead brake systems several years back. That article lists all the steps you should (or could) be taking. It was initially a Stickie for quick reference, but it got un-stuck some time ago. It's still in the forum stack, but I can't find it right now. 

That article listed options at 3 levels for obtaining stainless steel brake lines, from Off The Shelf to Do It Yourself. Each method has a different set of advantages in cost, availability, and available options.

Hope this helps.

EDIT: Found it....

https://www.airheads.org/community/parts-is-parts/brake-hose-failure-causes-cures/#post-6217

@wobbly thanks i'll check it out

Thanks for the link, it's a good read, but the rubber hose problem is not only in the MC world, but also in the automobile world. Inner swelling / flow restriction if so common, it's pretty much standard practice to replace all related hoses with brake repair, in repair shops. I also believe there's a recommended age limit for rubber brake hoses. 

As for 2-finger stops on an Airhead, I have not had that experience yet, including my current 95 R100RT, with new rubber hoses and EBC-HH pads up front. Though the mono shock front brake is a huge improvement over twin shock versions, it still ain't a GoldWing. Pad characteristics are important, and technology has came a looong way in the last 2-3 decades. In the Harley world, there's Lyndal Gold pads that transforms old (1980s and earlier) Harley brakes, I only wish they'd make them for Airheads. They wear out fairly quick, in 5000-10000 miles, but I'd gladly make the trade off. For now, looks like EBC-HH is the best we can get for Airhead. Unless someone here knows of a better pad? If so, I am all ears. LOL  

Posted by: @joe-hall

As for 2-finger stops on an Airhead, I have not had that experience yet, including my current 95 R100RT, with new rubber hoses and EBC-HH pads up front.

Besides the use of stainless steel brake lines, my recommendations also included the EBC full floating brake discs, which when matched with new EBC pads does the trick. When electing to skip 2 of the most important steps, then you probably should not expect the same end result.