Good idea as my bike has a clock also. that and the four-way I believe are all that are hot all the time. Looks like I will be picking up 2 new fuse holders to add and hope the new relay eliminates the blinkers being hot all the time.

Looks like I will be picking up 2 new fuse holders....

I bought a 10 pack of weather-proof fuse holders off Amazon, along with a pack of male and female 1/4" "spade" connectors. I used 2 additional holders to obsolete the pair of German fuses in the headlamp. The flat pack fuses are simply light years ahead of the OEM units in reliability.

There are 3 sizes of those flat, colored plastic flat fuses. I used the "Mini" size (the smallest) to save space in the headlamp and behind the dash. Click Here 1A works fine on the clock, and 7A works fine inside the headlamp. The 4-way flasher might also use a 7A.

I'm liking these suggestions Wobbly. How did you make the connections to the stock fuse holders for the new flat mini fuses?

I'm liking these suggestions Wobbly. How did you make the connections to the stock fuse holders for the new flat mini fuses?

If you'll look at the colored circuit board once more...

Green power from the ignition switch goes through the fuse and becomes Green/Black. Likewise, Gray power from the ignition switch goes through the fuse and becomes Gray/Black. I then noticed there were spare terminals on either side of the fuse. I made up a fuse link with female sockets on either end and simply plugged it into the board. Then the last step was to remove the German fuse.

The $54.00 relay from Bobs arrived today along with new spark plug and cap wires, I also had them ship new fuel lines so I could hit their free shipping amount.
The relay they shipped is a 30AMP with five spade connections where the old is a 15with four spades AMP. My local NAPA had a four spade 30AMP for $14.00 When I checked with them last week. The new relay has 87A &87B terminals So I just used 87A I turned on the ignition and bingo everything is working as it should problem solved My only concern is the difference in the original 15AMP to the new 30AMP rating, does this matter? I did install an inline fuse to the red power wire to the relay.
The fuel lines are the rubber with cloth weaving as I like the original look but remembered reading somewhere that a short piece of shrinkwrap on the cut end of the lines will keep it from fraying so I tried it. Nice idea and looks great.
I now have an intimate relationship with my headlight bucket and a much better understanding of the wiring on my Airhead.
I would like to thank the Airhead members who jumped in to help me out, you guys are great.
I would also add Bobs has great shipping usually at your door within a few days. I try to buy from a variety of Airhead venders just to keep them going.
So just one more question on the relay AMP ratings. Am I OK at 30AMP

So just one more question on the relay AMP ratings. Am I OK at 30A ?

Oh yes ! That's a very good thing. The higher current ratting refers to the current carrying capacity, not how much the relay consumes. New materials and manufacturing techniques have allowed them to double the capacity of the relay. That means the contacts inside the relay will be heating less under your load, and lots of other good things. In truth, once one maker figures out how to do this, all the other relay makers have to "up their game" too, so you probably can't source a 15A relay any more.

Hope this helps.