Welcome Eric!I have been working on a barn find for the last year and doing it to much the same level you are talking about. My best reference is the step-by-step videos on Boxer2Valve. He did exactly what you are embarking on, and did it with an R90/6. I also got a lot of good information on Brook's Airhead Garage. Both of these sites have more videos than you can imagine. They will keep you busy for a while. Don't hesitate to let me know how I can help. My resurrection is a 1975 R75/6. Pretty much the same bike you have, with smaller jugs.

Scott

Hey Thanks!!
Planning on flailing around here until I get up to speed a bit.
cheers.

Awesome! Thanks so much Scott
Definitely going to be checking in on those.
And will hit you up with Q's when I start unscrewing stuff.
eric

Just checked out the Wobbly thread...thanks so much. Lookin like I'll be getting kinda hooked on this stuff. : )

It's addictive!

Welcome Aboard !

You won't need to be a licensed jet engine mechanic or a degreed engineer to get one of these bikes running their best in a very sort time. It's a pleasant and very rewarding pastime, with a really big (and fun) payoff. Almost every piece is easily accessible and very easy to repair or replace.

Here's some tips worth millions...
• DO NOT change the engine oil filter until you have read and fully understand the "$2000 O-ring" article. You can change the engine oil, but Not the filter. CLICK HERE

• To start with, your bike will have low compression and may burn oil. This means nothing on an Airhead that hasn't run in a long time. Change the oil and then GO RIDE the bike ! Not just around the block, but for hundreds of miles ! The engine basically has to break itself in all over again. So all aspects of the performance will constantly be improving over the next 6 months.

Hope this helps.

Awesome Thanks!
I knew this was the place to get on board with. Can't wait...

I'm sure finding that to be true with mine, Wobbly. It has 140,000 miles on the clock and I have put about 500 miles on it since awakening it. It runs better each time I take it out.

Scott

I don't think your '74 has a 2000$ O-ring but read the article then open the canister and see what is in there THEN buy a new filter. The oil can be drained cold, just give it a couple days or a week while you are waiting on your filter kit. Tear down the old filter and have a look, Do a scrape test on the bottom of the oil pan or better order a gasket and pull the pan and get it over with. But the oil filter cover must be off when replacing the pan. The one screw that unfortunately lines up with the oil filter is the only through screw and mustn't be allowed to mash anything inside (don't think it will on a '74). check the date code on the tires, new fuel lines, check the valve adjustments and take it for a spin 🙂 It will tell you what it wants from there.

every fluid and grease in certain places are part of baselining the bike and starting your maintenance log.

I'm not a huge fan of the Utube heros. Not that they are unknowledgeable (except about camera work, grrrrr) but they run your learning curve at their pace. This may or may not be right for you.

Hey arni
Thanks so much for the heads up. Gonna take me a bit to navigate around these thousands of post but every piece of advice is gold
cheers

not all that glitters is gold. Do not do anything with the carb butterfly shaft o-rings until they are proven bad on a running bike. it's an easy test. You waft a little carb cleaner or starter fluid around the shaft at the o-ring and if the motor speeds up the o-ring is leaking. Servicing those o-rings is very delicate, requires parts not in the stock refresh kit and must be done with some careful knowledge and observation. And they seldom go bad. So do not go there until after all is up and running and you have tested them.