So is the general consensus - I'm a wussy for not sticking it out with the original 64/32/3 & 4's -- or is it the right move to buy the new 64/32/337 & 8's ? All things considered ?

We'd rather have you ask questions than break things needlessly. Some details simply aren't adequately explained. But it does look like you need a general manual (like a Haynes), to help you understand how to undertake some of the basic tasks.

Not knowing how to remove the carbs does raise some eyebrows because it means the original equipment wasn't fully investigated before "throwing in the towel". Not the way I might have done it, but that's really your business and your money. In the end, we're all simply spending our kid's inheritance !!

Be sure and service the air filter and replace the 2 rubber inlet hoses before you installed the new carbs.

Hope this helps.

Thanks for you insight - I do have a Haynes manual- and was studying it last night. Everything I do on my bike I strive to keep original (unfortunately at any cost). I've probably had ten BMW's --but all but one (r100rs)was fuel injected --so this is new to me. As far as the carbs, go I wanted to keep the originals going but every work order from previous owner has him complaining about idle problems, etc. and they've been gone thru twice in last 1,500 miles - but that's over a ten year span. Although it did sit around a lot and I'm sure that doesn't help matters any. I would never put those Japanese replacement carbs it seems a lot of people switch-out to - these new Bing's look exactly like originals and I'll certainly keep the old carbs to have - if I ever sell - which will be never. You know what clinched it - I'm 60 and have three kids- and every time I ride my r75 I'm screwing around trying to keep it from stalling and some times it just cuts out for no reason --and I damn near drain the battery trying to fire it up again - some times in heavy traffic = it's not safe. New carbs are supposed to arrive today so if I can see with all the sweat running down my face from nervousness I'll try and install them:) The woman/owner at Bing Carbs, Fay, recommended I join this board and I'm glad i did.

Interesting to see what others say about the cutting out and stalling. I’m having the same issue and I’m beginning to think it is an electrical issue. I’m targeting the condenser currently.

On more than one occasion I read stuff like this --(see below)

Quote Originally Posted by krisnys View Post
Hello, almighty forum.

I'm having problems with my beloved airhead. Here are the symptoms:

1. It starts right up from cold, no need for choke (always been like this)
2. Runs fine, except for sputtering somewhere between 2000 and 2500 RPM
3. After having been properly warmed up it starts to sputter, and the idle drops so that i have to constantly keep throttling it to keep it from dying (which i sometimes can't)
4. The exhaust pops when i try to start it again (which sometimes works)
5. The spark plugs have been a bit all over the place seeing as i have tried different carb settings, but generally they seem to indicate an engine running to rich
6. After it has cooled down again, it starts right up again and seemingly runs fine until the problems recur

You didn't say which carbs you had. But no need because I can tell by all your symptoms.
You have the junk Bings that came new with the 1971 R75/5. Perhaps the junkiest carb ever made. What you're describing is perfectly normal for those junky carbs. These junk carbs have a black "Bing" plate with silver "Bing" letters. There is NO fix for these other than the garbage can. I put Mikuni carbs on my R75. They will fix every problem you mentioned, but you will then need to use the choke on these carbs and the main jets will have to be changed at an elevation change of a few thousand feet, but they are very easy to change. They can be changed at a fuel stop, takes about a minute each side.

By far, the most common serious problem is when the 1971 Bing carbs get warm, they will not idle. Either at least 2,500 RPMs or the engine dies. But they are great when it is cold, and the choke is never necessary. However, not all of these old junky carbs have the exact same symptoms. But one thing they all have in common are the countless problems of one type or another.

There are other options such as newer Bings, which will fit better with your stock air filter and such.

But keeping those 1971 Bing carbs on the bike is NOT a reasonable option.

The 64/32/3&4 are known to be difficult. Robert Fleischer (snowbum) has written a detailed explanation regarding these difficulties. https://bmwmotorcycletech.info/earlybingR75CV.htm

Interesting - thanks. My new carbs are on now - but I'm having trouble getting them set-up. Idle fine but no throttle response. Going to watch some more videos and see if I can figure it out.

I followed your advice and the carbs came off pretty easily - the issue was the choke, taking off the air cleaner body and then the cables they sent me were wrong. Tomorrow's another day. Funny I got my wrong choke cables from Bob's BMW and the parts guy said they are busy because a lot of guys like me are staying home and working on their bikes - go figure

No throttle response....hmm?... What should happen is that when you turn the hand grip, the carb butterflies will open. This should produce some kind of response immediately. When you get this squared away, you will be well practiced at remove/replace the carburetors. First thing I would do is to remove the curved intake tube so that the carb throats are open to the atmosphere. Then, with the motor not running, turn the throttle with your right hand and stick a finger of the left hand in the throat of the carb to confirm that the butterfly is opening. If the carbs have enough fuel in them to support the motor idling, the throttle manipulation should produce some kind of response.

On a side note, I am waiting for carb re-build kits for My 1985 R80RT, and... I have been ordered to return to work on Monday. I was eagerly anticipating a chance to declare victory on the rehab of that bike.

When you get ready for choke cables, see Boxer2Valve, R90/6, #13. Very good demo. Anxious to Hear progress today!

Sounds like a blessing and a curse. Congrats/Sorry ☹️

gpopovich,... if you want to give me a call today, the number is 309-251-0877.

Hard starting this morning - maybe because no operating chokes? When it did start it chugs along - there is a throttle response but it's very delayed. I've been trying to adjust the throttle cables and the idle screw underneath- the only other screw I see is the jet - which really is not adjustable? Am I missing something? Bing said I should install inline filters which I did and never had before - I hope the arrow on filter is supposed to point toward carb from gas tank? If not how embarrassing.

Well, I can't believe I'm going to admit this ...but first I need to know, having only been here a few days -- if there's an award for the Biggest Idiot? If so I want it. Anyway, seems to run a lot better when I have the right side throttle cable hooked up to the throttle on the carb and NOT THE CHOKE !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Jesus!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Haven't been able to take on a test ride yet but I think a majority of my problems have been solved - I hang my head in shame.

Look at the bright side, that is one mistake that you will never make again.

That's for sure -- now trying to dial in the idle. Other than that It runs fantastically - feels like fuel injection and no stalling at every stop sign. It's night and day.