'71 R75/5: Removing and Installing Carbs
Hi Everyone,
New member here! I just ordered new carbs for my 1971 R75/5 the original 64/32/3&4's were driving me ape - could never get them right. Anyway, I'm getting new from Bing 64/32/357 & 8's and I was hoping someone could walk me thru the best way to go about removing the old carbs and installing the new- since I've never done it before. (as far as which clamps, hoses, cables to remove first, etc).
Thank you in advance - I appreciate it and happy to be onboard.
Best regards,
Greg Popovich
gpopovich@castlerockwinery.com
When I do that, I loosen every clamp and pull the carburetor straight out sideways from the motor. If you visualize the the curve of the entire assembly from the air filter box to the intake tubes to the carburetor to the heads, you expand, or open up that curve and the parts just fall away from each other. It's difficult to describe, but once you have seen it or done it, it makes perfect sense. Assembly is the reverse of the process. Hold the carb and the intake tube in place in an exaggerated curve and push them inboard together in the same move.
former Airmarshal, IL.
Thanks, at what point do you remove the cables and all the hoses? Do you pull the carbs free & then do it or before hand?
Watch some Youtube videos tonight. You will feel a lot better in the morning! I like the Boxer2Valve Videos and the Brooks Airhead Garage videos. They will give you a great deal of confidence before you wade into the deep water! Enjoy!
If you are hesitant about carb removal, then you'll love all the adjustments required for re-installing....
• It's critical that you make sure both chokes turn all the way OFF at the carb when the control lever position says they are OFF.
• Then you'll need to set both idle mixture screws to an initial setting of 1-1/2 turn. When the bike is cranked and warmed, you'll need to balance both idle speed screws to 950-1000 RPM by the tach. Then then last part is to use the twist grip to increase the engine speed to about 1800 RPM and balance the carbs using the throttle cable adjustments where the cables attach to the carb bodies.
• These settings will probably all need to be reviewed once the bike is back on the road and able to get fully warmed.
Owning an old Airhead is easy.
Keeping an old Airhead running great is the true test.
I've searched high and low -- every video pertaining to carbs -- they already have them removed or they're working while still on bike. If you have any you can point me to I'd appreciate it.
Thanks, Bing said they'd dial in all the factory settings and install proper jets, etc. I bought a 'CarbMate Synchronizer ' from Bing that's coming tomorrow with carbs- God knows if I'll know how to use it properly! I'll follow your advise about dialing them in. I had to order new choke cables for these carbs so that advise you gave I'm sure is critical.
Be sure you take a million photos before you start. These are really detailed, but take you time and watch.
Here is what it looks like to take the carbs off.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=302&v=7ws4urWZzw8&feature=emb_logo
Here is some of what Wobbly was saying to you about adjustments
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MpBA6wimjLc&list=PLXo0yJ7WoKfvSNxo1uZU3qupxkkf9xU4w&index=13
Here they are going back on
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5W90V8sZAgM&list=PLXo0yJ7WoKfvSNxo1uZU3qupxkkf9xU4w&index=12
I appreciate this - I'll watch ASAP about ten times each:)
I watched - great info.
Off subject-- How come when I hit reply it takes for ever to go thru and I get timed out? Is that normal for this board?
Yes, it's normal AND unfortunate.
The system takes time to send an email to everybody announcing that you just made a post. I hate it.
Owning an old Airhead is easy.
Keeping an old Airhead running great is the true test.
Do you know if to replace the choke cables if I have to take the whole mechanism off bike by disassembling the air filter housing or can I do while it's still on the bike? I just watched the video and he took the whole thing apart?
Yes. You need to do that. It’s not difficult, but really must be done.
So is the general consensus - I'm a wussy for not sticking it out with the original 64/32/3 & 4'S -- or is it the right move to buy the new 64?32/337 & 8's? All things considered?
I confess to wussiness at times. Generally, I have found that any of the original stuff can be reconditioned and made to work. And frankly, that is part of the allure of this hobby for me.
However, sometimes, you just want to start over. Earlier this year, I got tired of chasing electronic demons and just bought a new wiring harness. My life is NEW! Now I can get on to the other other stuff that the PO hasn't touched!
Wussiness is understandable at times, but this forum and other resources are available if you want to learn how to wrench on these great bikes! Welcome to our world!
Enjoy the Ride!
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