thank you scot, easy to follow upgrade. I already purchased factory equipment lines so have to remain as from the factory.
Now if i could just ask how to remove the gas tank? DUH factor. I really dont know anything about this machine.

HP Slim desktop260-a020
microsoft edge/Chrome or BING
I planned to get a factory service manual if i could find one, Clymers is sufficient? Id like to have a parts book to. normally i dont do anything without books but i thought this would be strait forward , easy enough. I've had a local shop do all the work but there has been some bad experience with that so now i either find a new shop or start doing it myself. I have a little skill, have rebuilt several Norton MC and currently restoring a 66 Jaguar., but in real life i am retired builder with 50 years as a mason/ Brick/Stone/Real plaster/ tile and marble. try to stay away from concrete work. :). I will try use the site with care. thank you. i did not dbl click submit...

HP Slim desktop260-a020
microsoft edge/Chrome or BING
I planned to get a factory service manual if i could find one, Clymers is sufficient? Id like to have a parts book to. normally i dont do anything without books but i thought this would be strait forward , easy enough. I've had a local shop do all the work but there has been some bad experience with that so now i either find a new shop or start doing it myself. I have a little skill, have rebuilt several Norton MC and currently restoring a 66 Jaguar., but in real life i am retired builder with 50 years as a mason/ Brick/Stone/Real plaster/ tile and marble. try to stay away from concrete work. :). I will try use the site with care. thank you. i did not dbl click submit...

Steven -
Welcome aboard !

• Let me encourage you to convert to the braided brake lines in place of the factory "rubber" lines. They add a lot more "feel" and stopping power to the brakes when installed. And it will be the last time you ever mess with the brake line too ! They last so much longer than the basic "rubber" OEM lines.

The DOT4 seems to attack the interior of the OEM lines, and it's usually the line that flexes the most that fails first. The failure mode is that fluid can be pushed to the caliper, but the fluid can't return. This means the caliper locks onto the rotor, leading to overheating, thus warping the rotor. The braided lines use a teflon (PTFE) inner hose which is unaffected by the caustic brake fluid, which eliminates the issue.

• I have a 1988 RS, which I believe shares the same front brake system as your 1995. The stock system has an upper flexible hose, a steel line under the tank, a flexible lower hose, and a steel line around fork leg going into the caliper. When I added braided brake lines, I installed one single line between the master cylinder and the caliper. So 1 line replaced 4 and made bleeding so much easier. The cost of the line and adapters totaled $45, so not only is the braking better, but it's also cheaper.

If I had to do it again, rather than run from the M/C to the LH caliper, I'd run the line to the RH caliper. This can be done by simply moving the bleed nipple from the RH caliper to the LH unit. That would make for an even shorter main hose, which results in easier routing.

Not so great photos....

• Front Wheel and LH Caliper

• Caliper Detail and Hose Connection

• Bleeding a system with the U-line connecting the 2 calipers is best done by purchasing an inexpensive pump-type oil can and filling it with the brake fluid. Then with a short piece of small hose on the can's snout, fluid is pumped in at the caliper's bleed nipple and up to the M/C. Once the system is filled, it can be followed by traditional top-down bleeding.

Hope this helps.