If i understood the prior conditions correctly, this issue with losing clutch adjustment happened before you took everything apart and replaced the clutch. So everything we would think was causing this issue has been changed and the problem is still there. Now we are down to transmission, which I am doubtful about, because how can anything happen internally that would cause a distance going through it to become longer. When the transmission was out did you tried to push the flywheel in and out to see if there was any endplay in the crank?

I tryed to measure it. I think there was about 3 thousands. But I didn't have my dial indacater was setting on the exhaust didn't have the right end to hook to the engine. It did not fill right I could not tell there was any play with out it. If I pull the pan can I see the back shim?

I guess it would be the front shim

If you have the .003" end play on the crank, that sounds like it may be correct. If you had the .125" that you say the shaft is not out far enough, that much end play on the crank would be noticeable. After pondering this over lunch I have to go back to the transmission even though I pooh poohed it a bit ago. The only thing I can think of that is left is the input shaft of the transmission has broken loose from a retainer and has moved forward. The nose is pushing against diaphragm partially compressing it and moving it away from the end of the clutch rod and allowing the clutch rod to move in deeper.
When you slid the transmission back up against the engine case did it slide forward all the way flush or was there a gap that you had to pull up tight using the bolts?

The seal seems to be running were it should on the input shaft i think the tranny is ok. Ihad the tranny out a few times and have seen nothing wrong

Did you "block up" the alternator before removing the flywheel ?

I havent pulled flywheel off but it was done at a dealer a few years ago. I learned my lesson on that the hard way.do you think i need to look at the shims?

I let a shim drop down one time

Do you think i need to look at the shims?

I have never personally been that far into a BMW Airhead engine, I simply know that one has to "block up" the alternator to keep the crankshaft shim in place. But that's also the only way I know that unexplained axial play can be introduced into the area of the engine/ clutch/ gearbox which might explain your dilemma.

What damage occurs when the shims fall out is therefore beyond my knowledge base, so I'm really not qualified to answer your question. We can always assume that if the shims weren't necessary, then BMW wouldn't install them. Therefore, measuring the crankshaft axial play from the front cover end of the engine might be worthwhile.

Thanks for all the help I will let you know what I find.

Hi,Airheads!I'm the owner of the pd.in this clutch topic.I have come to the conclusion that the crankshaft has moved towards the front.all the new clutch parts are in too far,so it can't work.Crank is not loose it seems just in too far.Has anyone seen this condition? Is it possible? Do I need a bottom end rebuild? Thank to everyone for all the input.