OK, it has been a long time since I needed to install a new clutch cable on my 1971 R75/5. Now that I need to, ran into a problem with routing it. I tried to follow the same path as the old one, but when I get to routing the cable underneath the pushrod tubes and in direct line with the recess it will fit into, it won't go through. I can make it through the first one, closest to the front of the engine, but it hangs up and snaps against the engine casing at the rear pushrod tube. I googled the routing and see pictures of the cable resting against the pushrod tubes and on top of the rubber seals, not sure if that is correct as it seems to put added stress on the cable as it is not a straight path.
I compared the two cables and the new cable has a slightly longer "nose" that the old one - picture attached. Not sure if that is causing the hang up but it appears the metal end on the cable is where it seems to catch.
I tried routing the cable in front of the rubber seals then slide it under against the engine casing but it won't go - don't want to force it too much.
Not sure if there is a technique for this, if so I would appreciate hearing.
ADDED INFORMATION / PICTURES
Images obtained from the google search show the location of the cable routing at the pushrod tubes.
Not sure if this is correct, my thoughts were it should go underneath the rubber seals.
If I understand you correctly, you're having trouble fitting the cable housing end (found on the clutch-end of the cable and shown in the first photo) through the seating hole in the engine case. The smaller diameter goes through the seating hole just fine, but the larger diameter won't fit. Is that correct ?
If it's any consolation, I have had nearly the same experience fitting newer cables to a /6. BMW has changed some of the dimensions by very small amounts, which can really make installing the new cables a bear.
• It's a change so small you can't see it with the eye, but you can measure the difference with a caliper. And that's the first thing I suggest you do... measure the cable end to be sure. I think you'll find it's ever so slightly larger. Maybe on the order of 0.008" larger.
• We could spend all day with a hand file making the cable end smaller, but since all cables after this will likely be of similar size, and since you won't want to repeat this exercise on the side of the road to install the next cable, we need to consider ways to enlarge the hole in the engine case.
• It won't take much enlargement, but it's not going to be fun because of the location. It would be best to get the bike up on a lift. You'll need to find a drill bit, round file, or rotary burr that can work in the small confines presented. Then simply remove the tiny amount of engine case meal until the cable end fits.
• The (new to you) stepped diameter end is intended to keep a rubber boot/bellows in place. Your old cable may not have had this, but the boot is intended to keep dirt and water out of the lower end and thereby increase cable life. After the cable slips through the engine case, you push the bellows onto the cable end.
• Don't forget to fill the clutch lever with waterproof grease before pushing the clutch lever "barrel" into place.
Owning an old Airhead is easy.
Keeping an old Airhead running great is the true test.
HI Wobbly and thanks for replying. I may not have communicated my problem as accurately as I should have. My initial problem is threading the cable under the rubber seals for the pushrods. In the 3rd picture that I have captured from the internet, the cable runs along the top portion of the rubber seals and resting against the pushrod tubes. My understanding is the cable should actually go underneath the rubber seals, against the engine casing and beside the frame. That certainly appears to be the route with less kinks in it. I can get the cable past and under the front rubber seal and against the engine case but when it gets to the back rubber seal, it only goes part way before it hangs up and jams against the engine housing. I can take the cable along side the rubber seals but unable to push the cable down and under the seals (at least without attempting to do so with great force which I am not prepare to do at this time) without it getting hung up again.
I will measure the two metal ends of the old and new to ensure they the same so I don't also run into the issue you described.
Tonight I will check to see if routing the cable initially from the engine end up to the handle bar end will work but it appears the metal casing on the lever end is the same diameter as the clutch end so would likely run into the same problem.
I'll keep at it.
Ahh ! My bad. When you said "top of the seals", you meant the end of the seals toward the cyl head. I understood it to be "top" as in "up", toward the fuel tank.
I can't help much then.
As long as the clutch cable routes above the frame and below the push rod tubes, then it's free to float in any general position that the fixed mounting lug on the engine points it. That exact position may change over time, or may change as the front end is pushed far left or far right. That "free movement" is aided by the fact that I see no need to secure the clutch cable with cable ties or other tight binding method anywhere below the area of the lower steering head post.
Additionally, which side of the vertical RH portion of the frame the cable runs is wholly dependent upon what type bars are on the bike, and which length clutch cable is being used.
• Stubby R90S bars may not allow the clutch cable to gently bend down until well to the RH side of the speedo mount. So the cable might run on the outside of the frame. But that's OK to me because the fairing on the S and RS tend to hide the cable.
• Full-width bars allow the downward bend to begin sooner. So the cable may pass to the LH side of the speedo mount and snake downward on the inside of the frame.
So which side of the frame tube the clutch cable is riding once it reaches the general vicinity of the oil filter may have more to do with where it ends up at the push rod tube seals than anything at the clutch-end of the cable.
But then I'm looking for very gentle cable bends, more so than the way BMW instructs !
Owning an old Airhead is easy.
Keeping an old Airhead running great is the true test.
Life is good again. Now that I am not trying to route the cable below the rubber seals / below the pushrod tubes all is fine. Bu routing the cable against the pushrod tubes I have no problem fitting the cable (as in picture 2 & 3) The metal end, pictured in the first photo does fit into the correct slot w/o the need for any modification - thank goodness. Thanks again Wobbly. Back on the road.
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