► Harbor Freight has motorcycle lifts available with "tire changing drop outs". You roll the bike up onto the lift and place it on the center stand. When everything is secure and the bike raised, a metal plate is slid away and the wheel in question can be dropped down, straight through the hole in the lift. This move negates the requirement to remove parts from the bike.
You can see it pretty good in this photo.
► In my experience, while you may need to deflate some tire brands, most rear tires larger than 4.00-18 or 120/90-18 take some drastic finagling to get past the final drive splines regardless of rear brake type on the dual rear shock models.
The close confine withdrawal clearances are not present on the later single-shock models, but you still have the tire size limitations due to the tire's proximity to the drive shaft housing when mounted.
Owning an old Airhead is easy.
Keeping an old Airhead running great is the true test.
Wobbly, that looks like the lift I've seen. But, I didn't know it had a back door wheel drop out.
Does my rear tire need a tube?
Bill
Wobbly, that looks like the lift I've seen. But, I didn't know it had a back door wheel drop out.
Most of the "flat work area" type lifts do have the "tire hatch" becasue without it your problems are exactly the same, the only difference is that your "problem" is now up in the air. Although front wheels are not nearly as difficult, I have placed bikes on the lift in reverse, allowing the same access on the front.
Does my rear tire need a tube?
That is a good question ! It depends upon your wheel type...
1) Obviously, all AirHead spoked road wheels require a tube.
2) If you have the 70's type "snowflake" mag it is not a true "tubeless" wheel, but many people (including myself) use it as such. You'll need a special valve stem and some sealer on the wheel interior. If you go this way you need to be aware that the rim will not secure the tire; deflation could be rather sudden and therefore dangerous. However, it allows a puncture to be resolved with the wheel on the bike... as long as the puncture is discovered early in the process... say during pre-ride inspection.
3) The later cast wheels found on the single-sided swing arm models are genuine tubeless type rims.
Hope this helps.
Owning an old Airhead is easy.
Keeping an old Airhead running great is the true test.
I have a bit over 1000 mi on a pair of activ's. I only see good scuffing on the rear as opposed to the flat I'd see wearing into the Continentals I had been running. I'm also running 40 psi front and 42 rear with one-up and average riding @ 25to 50 mi per trip/ride.
Good to know.
I got the wheel back today, installed with a tube. Tomorrow I'll put the rear end back together.
Bill
Toss the Shinkos? Not me! I'm now on my 4th set on three different motorcycles. I find that for touring in a dry climate the Shinkos are tough to beat. They wear as well as any tire I've used, and their performance is equal to my riding skills. I'm years past the age of trying to drag a knee in corners!
Before I began using Shinkos I often bought Bridgestone S11s or Bridgestone B45s (?). I'd put the Shinkos in their league any day. It's certainly true that each rider has his own style and preference, but to dismiss Shinkos across the board is clearly unfair. If there is a problem such as has been described above, I suggest that there may be other issues in play and the motorcycle should be examined carefully for bearings out of adjustment, or other suspension problems.
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