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Steering Damper

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Phil Yasuhara
(@phil_y)
Posts: 58
Trusted Member
Topic starter
 

OEM replacement for 77 R100S is almost $100 (over that with shipping). Anyone have any experience with aftermarket ones?

 
Posted : 02/08/2018 23:16
Richard W
(@wobbly)
Posts: 2590
Member
 

I'm also interested in this answer. I've often wondered if new fluid could be added to the old units, thus restoring them to something near their former glory.

Owning an old Airhead is easy.
Keeping an old Airhead running great is the true test.

 
Posted : 02/09/2018 10:32
James Strickland
(@8053)
Posts: 423
Reputable Member
 

Hey fellas, if you just have to have the steering damper functional, this is a case where taking a beating on a new one is your best choice. Phil, the sidecar makes a working damper a helpful feature. For a 2 wheeler, many riders remove the damper.

former Airmarshal, IL.

 
Posted : 02/10/2018 09:15
Jim Wilson
(@1559)
Posts: 206
Estimable Member
 

I Bit that bullitt . . . . . twice for my R90

i cheaped out and bought a used one off fleezebay and got Snookered

ended up buying a new one.

so HOW does one rebuild / re-fluid these units ????

i'd love to know & who ??

 
Posted : 02/10/2018 14:01
Richard W
(@wobbly)
Posts: 2590
Member
 

so HOW does one rebuild / re-fluid these units ????

i'd love to know & who ??

Here's what I'm thinking.... drill a very small hole on the top side at the stationary (fork) end. Not bigger than 1/32". See if you can get the oil to dribble out into a measuring device. (This may take a week for dripping.) The measurement will give you an idea of how much oil to put back in. Then shine the area around the hole really good. I'd use 10 or 15W synthetic fork oil, and use a syringe for the re-fill.

When it's filled and seems to be working OK, I'd solder up the hole with lead solder or low temp silver. If forced to use a torch, I'd suspend the body of the shock in a tub of water to keep from cooking the seals or new oil. If the piston movement doesn't create internal pressures, it's quite possible that a dab of Yamabond could suffice for the reservoir seal, but I think that's a long shot. Maybe some JB Weld epoxy would be the best ? Obviously once the hole is drilled, a whole lot more will be known about the interior goings on.

The working end of the shock is on the downhill side, so that the shock oil is always moistening the shaft and seals. That's why I believe the fat part of the shock is merely a thin-walled reservoir. The original contents may have been under nitrogen pressure to reduce foaming, but I don't think that's mandatory. Anyway, by placing the fill point near the top of the reservoir, it will never be submerged in use.

Try that with your Ebay special !

Owning an old Airhead is easy.
Keeping an old Airhead running great is the true test.

 
Posted : 02/10/2018 20:37

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