Great thread! Thanks for all of the excellent info. I used JB Weld to fix the lowers on my RS but one let go. I need to pull it off and sand and clean with acetone for a refit.
One last question: what length do you use to effectively capture the dash and fairing? I’m thinking the 4 - 10mm, p/n 93495A616.
—Bill
I don't remember the PN, but I do remember having grip length issues using the Inch-size. But the Metric size seems to offer more options, so I think you are correct. Also note....
• Due to the proximity to the edge of the parts (dash and fairing) you must use the ones with the 3/8 inch (9.7mm) dia body.
• Remember to pick one you can get nylon screws to fit. (Diameter AND length.) The body of 93495A616 is 20.6mm long, meaning that when you add the extra thickness of windscreen and nylon washer, you must be using an M5 nylon screw that has AT LEAST 25mm of thread.
• If you were using this Wellnut on a canoe where water-tightness is important, you might want a fully-formed bulb. But for this job with 14 fasteners, and especially because you are NOT using a steel screw, a partial bulb will do. So limit your screw torque and start with (say for instance) 12 full turns.
• If you ordered your windscreen from Clearview Screens, then they will send a packet of very nice black nylon screws and top hat washers. But the screws are 10-32 UNF, so you would want to order Wellnut 93495A190, which is not as good of a fit as your Metric version.
• If you want a little "bling" then it's safe to use 400 series stainless steel screws because the steel will only be touching the top hat washer and the Wellnut.
Owning an old Airhead is easy.
Keeping an old Airhead running great is the true test.
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