By obtaining your relay power using Green/Black, you protect the relay circuit with the 8A fuse already in your headlamp shell. Additionally, either the ignition key or the manual switch will turn the grips OFF.

I actually, finally hooked it all up. Pulled power from the battery, went through the relay, to a switch, to the grips. Pretty disappoint result however. There does look like there's power and I can feel a little heat, but not as good as my '87 K75S. This is not running, just pulling power from the battery.

Question: I just used a simple single pole switch, not the high/low original. I assumed that would be equal to on or High. Should I go back to the original? I want full power (hot!).

thanks

The amount of heat you feel is based solely on the wattage of the heaters. So before I answer any more questions, why don't you tell us about the wattage.

Makes sense. I think I eventually realized the two heat settings would be controlled by more or less resistance.

I don't know what the wattage is, these are factory grips purchased on ebay.

But, I am giving up. With your help I learned how to wire this up properly, got the system working, but felt only a trickle of heat at the grips. Turned out to be a big waste of time and money as far as keeping the hands warm.

Next step might be to try Oxfords or heated gloves. Oh well.

thanks for your patience and expert advice. You don't learn if you don't try...

Just to close this out – It Worked! yes, it took me a long time and some frustration, but as they say, if you know what you're doing it easy. I started out definitely not knowing, now I do.

Long story short: the power comes straight off the battery to a relay. The relay is activated by simple switch at the bars. The application (heated grips) are powered from the relay. The relay and fuse tuck in neatly in the headlight bucket.

The green/black is a fused line.
I added a fuse in between the connector board and the relay, just in case.

I think it's a pretty cool system and the alternator seems up to the task (it's fresh but just original output). On a simple test startup (crazy salt and ice around here) at least in the driveway the alternator read fine. I'll check more carefully soon.

So thanks again for the great advice.
Can't wait for drier, less salty roads.

the simple 1 form-c bosch type 4 or 5 spade relay system is ALWAYS WIRED according to the following ::

So, I got my MadElectrical relays booklet out and decided to make a usable reference to keep here on my site for future use ... and, of course, to share with you. It's as simple as pie really ... I was quickly enlightened once I realized that all the contacts always go to the same places.

SPST | The Single Pole Single Throw Relay has four contacts:
1. #30 -- Always goes to the Main Power Feed ... usually to a fuse and then to the positive battery power source.

2. #85 -- Always goes to a Ground source.

3. #86 -- Always goes to a Positive Feed from the Fuse Box. In plain english the switch that triggers the devise you want to run is 86

4. #87 -- Always goes to the Electrical Device you are powering ... lights, fan, AC/heater, heated grips, driving lamps, radio, etc.

SPDT | The Single Pole Double Throw Relay has a fifth contact:

5. #87a -- Always goes to a Secondary Electrical Device ... usually not employed unless you have a second device that you want turned on whenever the first device (#87) is turned off.

if ........ IF you follow this rule then you can easily trouble shoot any relay system.

heated grips usually have a control box to allow you a setting, Low / M / High. if you don't have one you can use an Oxford type for your grips.
https://www.google.com/search?client=safari&rls=en&ei=0adrXPnFHJKisAW81oGoCw&q=oxford+heated+grip+controller&oq=Oxford+heated++grip+controller&gs_l=psy-ab.1.0.0j0i22i30.421.8480..11537...0.0..0.293.3717.0j22j2......0....1..gws-wiz.......0i71j0i67j0i20i263j0i131j0i10.1N6Es_TRvhk

Thanks for the very clear diagrams. I did succeed in putting in a relay, fuse, and switch... and the old heated grips worked well. Rode in the low 30s comfortably - the RS fairing helps a lot. But after two rides I burnt out the throttle side. The rather small positive wire just toasted. Bummer.

So I bought Oxford touring grips and had a bear of a time installing. Left side no problem, but they barely fit over the throttle tube. And when I forced them on with many colorful words and lots of filing of excess rubber on the inside, they were still so tight that the throttle would not return. My 1981 throttle doesn't quite snap back like a modern bike - even if I service the throttle splitters.

So all in all the heated grips were a big fail. Time for heated gloves. (At least now I do know how to make a relay work)

too bad

~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~

Help with Oxford Heaterz grips!
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=529775

Premium Touring Heated Grips SHORT OF 691Z
The Oxford Heaterz Premium Touring heated handlebar grips are made especially for touring bikes. The grips have ergonomically engineered surface structures to optimize riding performance. Thicker rubber in areas of maximum wear; rhombus tread patterns for high levels of grip and feel; diamond tread pattern where maximum grip is required. Overall grip length is 4.72" [ 119.8 mm ] and can be trimmed to a minimum length of 4.33" without damaging the heating elements.

Premium Sport Heated Grips MEDIUM OF 692Z
The Oxford Heaterz Premium Sports heated handlebar grips are made especially for sports bikes. The grips have ergonomically engineered surface structures to optimize riding performance. Soft, ultra-grippy diamond tread is inspired by race grips for comfort and feedback. The grip length is 4.84” (122.9 mm) but can be trimmed to 4.48” (114mm) if required and has open ends for bar end weights.

Premium Adventure Heated Grips LONG OF 690Z The Oxford Heaterz Premium Adventure heated handlebar grips are made especially for adventure bikes. The grips have ergonomically engineered surface structures to optimize riding performance. Thicker rubber in areas of maximum wear; rhombus tread patterns for high levels of grip and feel; diamond tread pattern where maximum grip is required.
Overall grip length is 5.19" [ 131.8 mm] and can be trimmed to a minimum length of 4.80" without damaging the heating elements.

> > > EACH MODEL HAS A DIFFERENT LENGTH AND PATTERN < < <

Like your pix but can't see in your headlight bucket just where you put your relay and how you wired it. I'm installing Oxfords and could use a bit more detail on your wiring fix for it.

Regards,

Ken Cruise

Like your pix but can't see in your headlight bucket just where you put your relay and how you wired it. I'm installing Oxfords and could use a bit more detail on your wiring fix for it.

Regards,

Ken Cruise

i broke 2 right side grips. got the replacement direct from oxford factory's old stash, yrs ago. YES They ARE a bitch to put onto the throttle side.

i broke 2 right side grips. got the replacement direct from oxford factory's old stash, yrs ago. YES They ARE a bitch to put onto the throttle side.