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R75/6 ignition upgrade advice

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Mike Fate
(@mike-fate)
Posts: 3
New Member
Topic starter
 

Hello everyone. New member and first time airhead owner here.  Thanks for letting me join your club!  I just got my barn find R75/6 running and so far everything is checking out good. I’d like to update the original points and condenser ignition and I’m not sure which one to buy.  It seems like I read most about the Dyna and the Wedgetail?  I would appreciate your recommendations. Also will I need to replace the coils and plug wires when I switch?  Thanks for your advice!   Mike.  

 
Posted : 02/18/2022 08:44
Richard W
(@wobbly)
Posts: 2590
Member
 

Welcome Aboard !

That's a good looking ride you have there !

I used the Boyer electronic ignition on my /7 and had excellent results. These are extremely popular with English bike riders, but you hardly ever hear of German bikes using them. The kit includes everything you'll need, including wire crimps and cable ties. It uses the existing coils and wires. You install a rotor in place of the mechanical advance and a circuit board in place of the points plate. Then there's a small electronic pack about the size of a pack of cigarettes you hide under the fuel tank.

The main thing to look for in an EI is one that eliminates the mechanical advance unit, like the Boyer. The BMW mechanical advance is set for the older types of leaded fuel. Fuels have radically changed since the 1970's. By having the ignition advance done by the software (in place of weights and springs), the advance curve is much more in tune with modern fuels. Performance is simply better and maintenance of the advance unit is entirely eliminated.

Plug wires and plug caps should be replaced every 10 years as a matter of owner maintenance. You can buy finished wire sets from Motorrad Eliktrik, or you can buy metal-core wires and NGK 5K Ohm plug caps off Amazon. (Absolutely do not buy "resistor type" plug wires as commonly used on cars.)

Hope this helps.

http://www.motoelekt.com/

This post was modified 3 years ago by Richard W

Owning an old Airhead is easy.
Keeping an old Airhead running great is the true test.

 
Posted : 02/18/2022 14:09
Mike Fate
(@mike-fate)
Posts: 3
New Member
Topic starter
 

Thank you!   And thanks for the advice.  It really helps getting advice on here I’m Definately going to look at that system. You answered another of my questions without me even asking about leaded fuel.  So I guess I don’t have to worry about using any fuel lead additives in this bike?  I always run 93 octane non ethanol in my other 2 bikes. If the coils are original on the bike should I just replace them with the new ignition anyway just for precaution?  The bike is 46 years old and only has 19600 miles so I guess the are original coils. Thanks again!   

 
Posted : 02/19/2022 03:21
Richard W
(@wobbly)
Posts: 2590
Member
 

1. In most electronic ignitions the internal resistance of the coils is of primary concern, and can determine if the system is going to work. The Boyer works very well with the stock BMW coils. That's all I can say. 

I don't generally replace parts that are working nicely. Unlike the wires and the plug caps, the coils are not a "high wear" item. Lots of classic and vintage bikes are running around with their OEM coils. I have found over the years that replacing such parts usually blows up in my face. Here's a "for instance".... The main frame ground point for the entire electrical harness is at the LH coil mount. If you replace the coils, but are not able to use the exact same coils mounting brackets... then what ? You've created a larger problem by trying to help a smaller concern. I suggest you possibly moderate your enthusiasm. ? 

 

2. You should be running the highest octane Ethanol fuel you can find that is sanctioned by Top Tier Fuels ( https://www.toptiergas.com/ ). Second choice would be Ethanol free. Last choice would be fuel with manually added Lead additives. 

Lead was originally added to cushion the valve seats. Running "unleaded fuels" in this decade will shorten the life of the valve seats ever so slightly. This will mean that your Airhead valves will tend to tighten up as you ride. How much or how fast will depend on many things. I suggest that you check your valve lash every 5,000 miles for the first 15,000 miles and that will tell you how long your engine can go with your riding style and local fuels. 

?

This post was modified 3 years ago by Richard W

Owning an old Airhead is easy.
Keeping an old Airhead running great is the true test.

 
Posted : 02/20/2022 18:28
Mike Fate
(@mike-fate)
Posts: 3
New Member
Topic starter
 

@wobbly thank you I will take your advice on the coils.  I Definately don’t want to cause any problems unnecessarily!  The old say “If it ain’t broke don’t fix it!” Has probably saved me a few times on projects.  Haha.  

 
Posted : 02/21/2022 00:14
Richard W
(@wobbly)
Posts: 2590
Member
 

...and also applies here.

All the best my friend !

Owning an old Airhead is easy.
Keeping an old Airhead running great is the true test.

 
Posted : 02/21/2022 04:54
David Elkow
(@4949)
Posts: 320
Reputable Member
 

I often find myself thinking the same. The original parts and pieces were so well made, but what about this current replacement part? … where did it come from?  I did eventually replace the coils on my ‘78 with the current Bosch edition, which are made in Brazil, I believe. May be sorry someday. 

 
Posted : 02/21/2022 05:31

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