My R100RT oil cooler doesn't get that hot either unless I'm in city traffic.

My R1100s oil cooler worked the same way and I thought there was something wrong with it as well but it wouldn't get warm from highway driving unless you were travelling at high speeds. I only ever noticed it getting warm in city traffic with idling etc.

So called normal oil temp is in the range of 230-250 F, so my guess is that the thermostat doesn't cut in unless it is at the high end of this range.

Can't comment on bolt, don't know the answer.

Sometime back I had purchased one of those oil coolers off of the two valve website listed under Oil-thermostat :SH: http://www.boxer2valve.com/motorcycle/1142301.html i’ve asked them about supplying a house with their thermostat and have gotten no response.

It’s supposed to work with your stock line However I find that the stock lines don’t lineup as I have the straight ones I have an RS 78 . On their website in the picture it shows curved Lines such as ones that come on the older Gs.

I haven’t been able to find anyone to make lines for me even though I’ve asked the guys at bobs

So I’m attempting to make some myself I have found a 12 mm banjo to - 6AN
Which I think will get me connected to the thermostat however I am not sure what I need to connect to the oil cooler itself? I’m sure some of you guys know it gets quite expensive trial and error fittings through mail order especially.

I’m pretty sure the fitting is a 14 mm 1.5 thread on the cooler is this correct?
Is anyone actually know the name of the fitting that is on the cooler of my 78RS?

I can't help directly, but here are some optional suggestions... call Boxer2Valve and see which lines they use, OR a local hydraulic hose maker could possibly help. While the local guys typically won't make brake lines due to the liability, they'll jump at the chance to make engine oil lines.

Goose -
You might look at the oil lines from Motoren Israel. Here....

https://www.motoren-israel.com/Shop/Oil-cooler-mounted-in-the-center/Oil-cooler-set-cool-down-buffed::200265.html

Well I think I’m just going to give up I don’t think I really get any benefit from adding this particular aftermarket thermostat/ cooler except for maybe a different temperature range certainly doesn’t seem to make changing oil anymore convenient . which is what I was looking for .
Basically just changing one problem to another as a matter fact this other way might be more complicated

Thanks for the link to those lines.

however I would be afraid to order those there’s not much room under there I was attempting to make my own and I have found that without that first couple inches being a 90 pipe you’re running into problems trying not to hit that crossmember on the exhaust.

And those lines look pretty much like what I just came up with myself which I pretty much consider a Knogo

As when I was trying all different ways to run my am6 hose there’s really only two options without adding a jumble of fittings or having a 90° banjo with a little length of pipe on it which I haven’t been able to find in that size. around the back by the neutral switch or diving under the crossmember and coming up in front of the oil pan neither one of those I really liked

I don’t know if it’s just my particular bike or the way I put my exhaust back on but there is absolutely a hairs breath being able to pull out or put back in the original thermostat last night I had thought we’ll maybe the pipe had started to come out so I tried to screw it back in and swear that I didn’t slip or bugger it but then trying to put the new thermostat or old one back on that was on their moments before I try to tighten it I must have buggered up the end of the pipe.

Which as I was rubbing with my fingers frantically trying to find the rough edged culprit wasn’t able to find anything with a sharp edge I guess I must’ve spread the end a little bit. just hit it with a fine file a couple of times and lo and behold cooler slips back on thank God I have a lift so I can get on my level with the Thing .
The pipe wasn’t loose.

I wonder if anybody ever had that pipe back out to where they had to remove the exhaust to take off the thermostat?

I was just trying to make changing the oil easier I don’t know what it is with me and this particular model every time I go to change the oil its way messier and way longer than it should be.
Never seem to get that thermostat back on with out 45 minutes of Rubiks cube fun.

Here’s what I was doing I had the coolerWire tied into position mount fabrication

Well I think I’m just going to give up I don’t think I really get any benefit from adding this particular aftermarket thermostat/ cooler except for maybe a different temperature range certainly doesn’t seem to make changing oil anymore convenient, which is what I was looking for. Basically just changing one problem to another as a matter fact this other way might be more complicated.

Then what you may want to do is to install the "deep oil pan" by Mac or Motoren. This assumes you don't live in an extreme heat area, like Arizona.

Mac: http://www.shop.macperformance.com/MAC-BMW-Twins-1970-1989-Large-Oil-Sump-Pan-98101.htm

Motoren: https://www.motoren-israel.com/Shop/Oil-pan-Distance-rings/Alu-Oil-pan-ca-3-5-l::201827.html
(Blue Moon Cycle in Atlanta is selling these currently on Ebay for $150)

Once you unscrew the center post/tube that the oil filter itself rides on, then you can replace it with the older, shorter version. Then you'll revert back to the older filter with 2 closed ends, and the solid aluminum cover without external hoses. At that point you can remove the hoses and oil cooler completely.

The lower sump, holding approximately 1 additional US quart, should keep the engine oil just as cool. You can check this with a thermometer oil dipstick, sold separately.

Hope this helps.