What are people doing for replacement ignition switches on the /6 models. Max shows them "not available". I'm aware of all the third party switches available at auto parts stores, but doubt these will fit inside the headlamp shell of a standard model /6.
Owning an old Airhead is easy.
Keeping an old Airhead running great is the true test.
I ended up rebuilding the switch myself and it works great now.
Owning an old Airhead is easy.
Keeping an old Airhead running great is the true test.
any photos Wobbly of a stock bmw /6 switch ?
when i rebuilt my Indian chief ignition switch i took many pics for others to see ........
I am a newbie to this forum. I have a couple of questions I hope those with more experience can answer.
I have a ’74 R90/6 in which the connection for the yellow wire going from the headlight to the board at 56b (?) burned up. The board looks blacked, but possibly repairable by replacing the 56b junction connection. My quick fix was to disconnect the battery ground wire, replace the burned female connection from the headlight with a male, and connect direct to the yellow wire from the headlight switch. I then sprayed electrical cleaner into the headlight switch while manipulating it. Hopefully, these repairs will not create any additional problems. The lights all work as of this post.
Could someone with more experience provide me additional information on how to disassemble and rebuild the /6 headlight switch? I am afraid of breaking the switch while trying to rebuild it.
Could someone who has used the Eastern Beaver headlight relay kit on their /6 share some information on its installation and use? Everything I have read about the EB kit has been positive, but my take is that if ordered it would be a generic single light H4 relay kit instead of one specifically designed for my /6. I would like to know what I should anticipate with this type of EB kit.
Thanks for your help.
Could someone with more experience provide me additional information on how to disassemble and rebuild the /6 headlight switch? I am afraid of breaking the switch while trying to rebuild it.
I love to see this also......
as far as the eastern beaver relay......... they probably come with instructions. don't know for sure. i make my own wire harness / relays / etc.
i agree w/ you.......... so to make it fit to your application you can shorten/ lengthen the wires used in the kit. therefore you changed the original. SO, learn to make your own. use correct crimp tools, solder, and heat shrink. anything less than a good installation job threatens your bike and riding enjoyment. knowledge = power
KNOW :: that ALL 4 or 5 spade BOSCH relays used in automotive uses are wired the same, in general used this as a guide.
(some swap 85 & 86) but if you learn one way........... always wire all future relays the same !
85 = ground
30 = main fused power from a 12vdc battery source
86 = switch
87 = to appliance you wish to power using this relay
87a = non switched 2nd appliance
the brown, yellow and white wires to the H/L H4 connector are ;
brown = gnd
white = high
yellow = low beam
there are slightly better H4 pigtails that are made of ceramic not plastic sockets. if you do decide to put a higher wattage H4 bulb in . .... not really recommended. those can be bought thru napa or another FLAPS.
Thanks for the info. I must now take some time to digest your advice. Making my own relay may well be the best way to go.
Do you have more pictures of your switch work?
KEEP NOTES on any work you DO.
mount relays where you can/ hide them away.
use good connectors, crimp tool, solder connections, shrink tube solderless connections
use color coded if possible. keep notes ! ! ! !
where do you live........ email me direct
i don't take to many photos of wire work, i've done it for 40yrs ????
1559,
I am on the East coast. I am willing to e-mail you directly for additional info. How do I locate your e-mail address?
vinceotter@prodigy.net
Wobbly,
The pics you provided to 1559 are great. They reveal the internal design of the switch making it easier to understand how the switch works. Could you tell me how you disassembled the switch? I would like to clean mine and fear going in blind I might break something. Thanks.
1559,
My bad, I confused your pics as being posted by Wobbly. Thanks for the clarification and all the other info you sent my way. Before long I be making my own relay kit. Your advice has been a tremendous help.
Now, where is that Wobbly? He said he rebuilt his /6 switch. I would like to know which version it was. After requiring some time to focus in on the question I realized we may be talking about the two different versions available on the /6. I am pretty sure mine is actually a /5 headlight switch which was the inventory the factory was depleting before using the the later version which has all the colors and labeling. Mine is the plain black with the low/high/passing/horn switch positions. My other switch is also the plain black with start/left/right positions.
Is there anyone who has rebuilt a seventies /5 headlight switch?
I have left the safety and dry of north GA to ride my R100 deep into northern TN to allow the hurricane to rain on me for 3 days. My bike is holding up better than my rain suit !!
To disassemble a /6 or /7 switch, simply pry the 3 dimples on the rear of the metal housing out. The entire mechanism is loaded from the rear. Push it out over a deep bowl. There are springs and balls galore !! Nothing too complicated though.
More detail when I get home.
Owning an old Airhead is easy.
Keeping an old Airhead running great is the true test.
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