Thoughts....
• There are formulas on the web to tell you how much your suspension should settle with your weight added to the bike. Basically you measure to the top of the rear shock mount without your weight, then bounce on the seat several times finally remaining seated and compare those measurements.

There are other formulas for the front.

• The grease on the head post bearings has probably oxidized and hardened. Remove the fork crown, drop the front end about 4 inches, thoroughly clean, and repack those bearings with waterproof grease of some description. Most people think the front end is stationary, but it's actuality moving back and forth all the time in minute amounts.

• Are the tires popped out onto the rim all the way so that the tire runs true on the rim ?

• Are both wheels balanced without using the wheel's own bearings ?

• Is there any play in the wheel bearings ? When was the last time the bearings were lubed ?

• Are the sing arm bearings lubed and adjusted properly ?

If you'll place the bike on the center stand, you can then work your way around the bike on a short stool. Just shake and pull on everything connected with the suspension. You'll usually find several items that need service.

Hope this helps.

Agree with Wobbly on check list, I had a similar issue and turned out after checking off all on his list it was the last one, neglected swing arm bearings.
One more thought, even though your about 70lbs. lighter than me, I'd run more air pressure...try around 33F/35R.

I had the same situation when I first got mine back on the road after purchasing it from my friend. Upped my air pressures to mid 30s and all is good now.

Hi Wobbly,
I’ve normally set my settled suspension to 1/2 the travel but I’ve neglected checking this bike. I suspect the front springs might be weak. I’ll look around to see if these old bikes are better at a higher/lower setting and get that check done!

I’ve not had the steering head apart but it’s on my schedule this year. But it turns smoothly with no noticeable notch action. But good idea, I’ll move that up on the list.

Wheel balance, play and lube was done about last year about 3k ago, but again worth a check. Same with swing arm bearings.

I bought a Harbor Freight MC lift this spring. Wow does it make these services so much easier. Wish I’d spent the $300 years ago! I actually spend time drinking my coffee sitting in my little mechanics roller chair just gazing, checking, cleaning. Did I say I love that Rack!

All good thoughts, thank you.

Hi 15087 & jnicks01, good idea on tire pressure I’ll give that a try next ride.
Thank You.

You're getting a lot of good feedback here.

► Suspension work is generally considered to be "black magic", but only becasue the average rider does not generally maintain or ever even check wheel bearings, forks, and swing arms. Tires being fully "popped out" on lace-up rims was never a big deal, but new tubeless tires on alloy wheels is an adventure in itself, so check it. And then as mentioned by others, correct tire pressures. (Pressures have increased since your owner's manual was written.) Once you're sure of the basics, then you can turn to spring weights and sag.

Here's some good stuff on springs and sag you can look at.

► Congrats on the lift. Here are some photos to show you how to add a 4x4 (or two 2x4's) to the front and VASTLY improve the hold-down capability and overall usefulness of your new lift. The 6" screw-eye actually holds the boards on, and acts as the tie point for standard tie-down straps. If you have a fairing, then you'll tie off at the fork triple tree rather than the bars.

Overview of the 4x4 wheel stop

Detail of the 4x4 wheel stop

Photo of a 3-letter m/c receiving rear wheel service using the tie down technique

Hope this helps.