That video was interesting for sure with good info on swapping headlights. For now I was going to leave the stock bulb as it works quite well even though the top cutoff of the low bean is a little wonky. Right now I don't need any extra power as everything is stock with no heated grips etc. 

I'm sure dropping by your shop would be great but I'm pretty certain you a way farther away than a day trip as I live in Newfoundland! Thanks for the offer anyway. 

Just a bit of a ride, if I were younger, no problem.   Good luck, St.

Thanks, I poke around at a few different Beemers and KTM's. I have no clue about my Aprilia scooter and my uncle is giving me a Moto Guzzi so plenty of learning curve and I only go so far with it all. Plenty to keep me on my toes. 

LOL, oh Mike I have to laugh, many years ago I acquired a Moto Guzzi Convert?  The model from the 77 year with the two speed auto transmission.

I had never seen so many warning lights and cut out switches on a motorcycle until that one came into my shop.   Sadly the wiring harness was toast.  I smoked cigars at the time so one day I lit one, and started taking the main harness and sub harness off the bike.   I ended up with one large pile of toasted jumping snakes.  

I could not at the time find a replacement (that along with how much of a wiring harness and "stuff" there was) so I sold the bike to a co worker.  He had Moto Guzzi connections and found all the harnesses and sub harnesses and restored the bike to show room condition.    

I don't know anything about any other Moto Guzzi but remembering that one brings a smile to my face.  St.

Hey Mike, I dug out this video and while it is car oriented, I think it would help you out maybe on your bike.   Take a look and let me know if it helped or hindered?  St.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=APLic9F7ZsA

This MG is an '03 V100 Sport that I have no doubt is virtually mint as my uncle takes very good care of his machines. Right now there is something going on with the electrics but it could be as simple as a bad battery. He doesn't do hs own work so it's at a shop getting checked out. Here's hoping it's something simple and it will be good to go for me to do a fly and ride from Maryland. I will bring a tool roll with me regardless.

Back to my pesky signal light that seems to be suffering from voltage drop. I bought a set of LED's and low and behold it works! Sure both flash at the high speed but now at least I have 4 working signal lights. It seems my thought of lower power still being enough to power an LED vs incandescent bulb was correct. I'm still working on getting a new wiring harness to get my clock working again and tidy up all that stuff up front. 

Thanks for putting up that video, he made some good points and it makes a lot of sense. I'll see about doing a test on mine to try to find exactly where the voltage drop is coming from.

Check out some of the other forums, I think you will find a replacement flasher that will work with your new LED lights.  The reason the lights are flashing is the relay thinks there is a bulb burned out.  This is due to the lower amount of amperage draw LED, bulbs draw versus incandescent.    

There have been tons of debates, fixes and controversy regarding this issue.   I myself have replaced the taillight with a LED unit from Motorrad Electrik,  As I mentioned I don't ride at night so I replaced my H4 bulb with a Cyclops LED.   Projecting the beam up against my garage wall shows a possible passible pattern that might work at night if I ever get caught out.   The other bulbs in my tool box showed a big bright useless blob of light, that would not work for me seeing and would have pissed off oncoming drivers.   I could be wrong but maybe in one of the BMW airhead owners manual there used to be a pictorial and instructions on how to adjust the headlight beam pattern.   

Turn signals, I left at normal incandescent bulbs, I didn't want the hassle of finding a flasher that would work with the LED bulbs. 

Changing bulbs is a very hot topic in that there are lots of posts, ideas, theories, lies and facts out there to make my head swim sometimes.  

good luck. St.

I get the flasher doesn't recognize the bulbs properly but at least they work. With the voltage drop on the left side the incandescent doesn't work at all so for now this is a better fix. I'll do a little research for a new flasher unit. 

My regular H4 bulb works ok, I should do the wall test just to get the level right. I'm not worried about changing it right now. The video about LED headlights was very informative as to what style works or not. 

As for riding in the dark I try not to but I do get caught out sometimes which is why I really like aux lights to beef up the output. I have them on 3 bikes right now but want to add more to other bikes. 

It is strange you have one turn signal that is not working.  Have you looked under the seat at the junction block there?  The junction of the main wiring harness coupling the rear light bundle harness?   That is a source of corrosion and I have had to at times pull it apart clean it.   LOL, my last restoration of my bike ended up with all new wiring harnesses, the original ones had just gotten so brittle and crappy they could no longer be repaired.  Then again, I ride in all kinds of weather and have salt on the roads in the winter.  St. 

You don't have to tell me about salt! Newfoundland is famous for it both in the air from the ocean and they hammer it on the roads in the winter. Car manufacturers used to put test cars here to test paints and coatings etc. 

From checking with a multi meter there is definitely voltage loss on the right side. I did check as much of the wiring harness as I could get at with the tank off but I think it's coming from farther up. I had a look at the board inside the headlight shell and everything in there looked ok from a cursory look.

Admittedly, any troubleshooting of the main harness in the headlight shell can be annoying or downright aggravating.  Unless someone messed around in there in the past, it should be pretty neatly sorted out.   Hot wires, or un switched are on one side of the board, switched or controlled wires ie turn signals are on the other, looking at the board the left side.  Also on the left side is the flasher.

So poke the terminals just to see if anything is loose on the board.  Check the housing and make sure the rubber grommets to protect the wiring entering are in place and that a wire hasn't been worn through.   I found on my RS the wire bundle for the emergency flasher never had a grommet or the previous owner for some reason removed it.  I was lucky I caught it before a wire was damaged.

As for the rest of the main harness, well, poke and prod, check continuity the best you can.   Frankly I think if you are having an issue with one turn signal, you might try a jumper wire from turn signal ground to the battery ground.  if it works Bob's your uncle.  Good luck. St.

I'll take a stab at it when I'm back in town and can get to it.

For your information EME sells a large selection of direct wiring harness replacements.   They have a source in Germany, LOL one old guy who makes them.   You can get just about every harness you would need for your bike.  St.

Thanks, I've been talking to them about grttingthe little sub harness that connects the voltage meter and the clock but still back ordered.