Re: inop turn signals. I have a similar problem on my R60/6. The turn signal relay inside the headlight housing has a bit of a loose grip on the mounting/grounding tab. If the big wiring loom bumps it (caused by large steering movements?), the signals stop working. Gently pulling down on the wiring loom where it comes out of the bottom of the headlight sometimes fixes it. Otherwise I need to open up the headlight and realign things. Haven't figured out yet how to get that relay mounted more securely.
Ok, when I get a chance I will start tracing wiring to see what I see. I just know when I would lose the signal lights on the R65 it was usually because the fuse came out of holder. I'm pretty sure the R100 has a single fuse in the headlight casing but have to double check. I do have a few spare fuses to fit. In this case it is only the signal lights that are not working, all of the other lights are fine. Of course getting into the headlight cowl on the RS is a bit of a job by the looks of it. Thanks for the tip about the relay, a loose ground could certainly be the problem.
Turns out turn signals and horn are out which makes me think even more it's a ground issue. Time to start studying the wiring diagram.
I was out for a run and today it decided to throw a muffler out on the road. Good times! The front brakes are heating up and dragging hard, it looks like a little more bleeding is in order.
The front brakes are heating up and dragging hard, it looks like a little more bleeding is in order.
https://www.airheads.org/community/parts-is-parts/brake-hose-failure-causes-cures/#post-6217
Owning an old Airhead is easy.
Keeping an old Airhead running great is the true test.
That's an excellent article, thanks for putting me onto it to remind me to take a closer examination of mine.
The RS has 2 pieces of brake his and 2 sections of metal tubing, I can order the hose pieces from Bob's for reasonable $$. Too bad shipping is getting so expensive! Any thoughts on what products to use to clean out the metal piping?
I didn't feel any expansion in the lines with braking but when I cracked the bleeder valves to try to take a bit of fluid out of the system nothing came out so maybe they are clogged like you mention in the article?
A little other research showed that it was a blown fuse, when I tried a new fuse it blew as soon as I hit the horn. A investigation showed a connection to the horn had a little tab of metal that was hitting the frame. A little repositioning fixed the issue. Glad I had several spare fuses.
> If one flex hose failed, then I would replace them all. They've all seen the same caustic brake fluid and the same abuse.
> There's nothing "clogging: the metal lines, so don't even bother. It's always the flexible lines that need the attention.
> Remind me which calipers you have and do you have the separate hoses going to them or the single hose setup. A photo would help. IMHO, sometimes it's better to replace several flex/solid line combinations with one long flex hose.
Owning an old Airhead is easy.
Keeping an old Airhead running great is the true test.
I'll get a pic later of the Brembo callipers. You're saying it might be better to get rid of the multi piece lines and just run single steel braided lines? How hard is it to figure out length etc? My guess is I'd need custom lines?
This is what's on my R100. Pretty hard pull on the lever and very little travel on the lever. That's why I tried to bleed a bit of fluid off to reduce the amount of fluid in the system.
Just buy the Bob's or the Speigel kit and be done with it.
The way BMW has the 1 into 2 mounted on the frame keeps the system from being self-bleeding. You'll probably need a vacuum assist to get all the air out of the system.
And remember that anywhere/ anything that brake fluid gets on while you're bleeding is going to have the paint eaten off 24 hours later. So remember to wash the bike.
Owning an old Airhead is easy.
Keeping an old Airhead running great is the true test.
I did bleed the brakes when I got the bike, it took a little futzing around but I got it done. I think the kit will be easiest. You say Speigler has a kit to fit?
The Spiegler kit is very pretty! I think I will go with that. Clear lines and blue fittings might be nice! I should replace the lines on my R65 LS as well if I'm getting into that game plus that bike needs a carb rebuild.
Why does every bike you own need a carb rebuild ?
Owning an old Airhead is easy.
Keeping an old Airhead running great is the true test.
Only most of them. I don't think my '82 has ever had any work done to it to my knowledge and I've been familiar with this bike since my friend first owned it in the 90's. My KTM that needed it wears out parts in just a few years needing rebuilds and it's had 2 since It was new in '06. I think 40 years is good timing for a rebuild but it runs fine as is. Plus doing rebuilds will make me better at the operation. Just waiting on a couple of stator parts for that to be back on the road.
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