I did the JB Weld fix and I think it is totally bomber!

I'm not worried about a little paint.

Next up bleeding brakes. Been awhile since I've done this on anything so it should be fun.

Anyone have any preferences for tires for an R100?

Do a forum search on "tires". It's been discussed at length.

I pulled one of the carbs off to take a look. It needed some serious cleaning on the back and looking at the slide it's obvious they need a rebuild. Just need some cash and I plan to order the deluxe kits from Bob's BMW. This should be fun as I'm not the best at carbs and I've never been into a Bing before. 

I would highly suggest that you do this instead....

1. Read about and start using Top Tier fuels. The black is most likely caused by the PO lugging the engine while using cheap fuel.

2. Consider adding 2 tablespoons of fuel stabilizer and CLEANER to each tank, such as StarTron.

Consider that there is a risk is any disassembly. Consider that you will be cleaning while riding versus cleaning while wrenching. Consider that the important places to clean ALL involve fuel flow.

Hope this helps.

The fuel stabilizer isn't a bad idea. Our local fuel is pretty good so I'm not worried. Who knows the last time these carbs were really looked at. I have service records going back to at least '02 and the only thing listed was new gaskets for the float bowls. It won't be a bad thing to learn a bit about the inner workings of these. Snowbum has some excellent articles about working on these too.

"If it ain't broke...."

We know it runs as we fired it up when I first went to look at it. Pretty impressive on old gas. Once the carbs are cleaned up and balanced it should purr like a kitten. I have a Harmonizer, I just have to learn how to balance carbs. 

Posted by: @16813

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I have a Harmonizer, I just have to learn how to balance carbs. 

Simple enough !

► You want to do this after a complete tune-up. Especially important is strobe timing the ignition to the Full Ignition Advance mark ("F") as a prerequisite. Carb adjustments are dynamic in nature and unlike valves, timing, plug gap, etc.... have no measurable settings themselves and are therefore wholly dependent upon all other tuning adjustments being set correctly. Let that sink in.

1) Go ride the bike for AT LEAST 10 miles. Place the bike on the center stand. Place a box fan to blow on the engine.

2) Set both Idle Mixture screws at 1-1/2 turns out.

3) Remove the port blocking screws and connect the Harmonizer. Crank the bike.

4) Adjust the Idle Speed screws until the carbs are balanced and the engine is idling at ~900 RPM.

5) Tighten the cruise control screw on the throttle grip. Set the engine to run between 1500 and 1800 RPM.

6) Balance the carbs once again using the Throttle Cable Adjusters on the carbs.

7) Slack off the Cruise Control Screw. Replace the 2mm screws that block the Harmonizer tube connections. 

NOTES

• Not every Airhead has the Cruise Control Thumbscrew. The US DOT outlawed them at some point, but the hole in the twist grip is still there to accept one. All you need to do to order 2 parts: the Thumbscrew and the Spring, and then install it yourself. No disassembly is required and the accessory is a VERY nice option which allows relaxing the throttle-hand on long rides.

• The more often you do carb balancing, the easier it gets. Not only because you understand it better, but because the carbs will not be so far out of adjustment. Since you own the equipment, once every 4-6 months should be plenty.

Hope this helps.

That is excellent information! Thank you so much. Do you have a diagram shoeing the port blocking screws for where to attach the harmonizer? Which ones are the thumbscrew and spring on this diagram? 

?1

• The thumb screw is the large screw shown with the spring.

Excellent, thank you! I think mine already has the thumbscrew installed. 

Anyone know where I can find out which terminals go to which wires on the clock and voltmeter? I'd like to get these working if possible.

View of the Airhead's multi-color circuit board with all the wiring removed

• Close inspection of the instruments themselves will reveal that one of the terminals on each is connected directly to the body of the instrument. Those contacts are the Negative terminals, and should be connected to the Brown terminals on the multi-colored circuit board.

• The clock is powered all the time, thus it is connected 24/7 directly to the battery. This is done by routing a Red wire directly to the Red terminals on the multi-colored circuit board.
► ► If you care about your harness, then it is HIGHLY advisable to place a 1A flat pack fuse to that line. Power for any item using the Red line is not electrically protected. There is no "main fuse" on an Airhead. The first sign of trouble will be a smoking main harness. 

Typical in-line waterproof flat pack fuse holder used for accessory wiring

• The voltmeter is only powered when the ignition is ON. Thus, its power is controlled by the ignition switch. Power comes to the voltmeter via Green/Black wiring from the multi-colored circuit board. [Typically, you may find all terminals on Green/Black are occupied. However, you may find empty terminals on Green. You can use one of these terminals if you again add an in-line 1A flat pack fuse. The difference then between Green and Green/Black is the 7A fuse between them.]

► On the RT and RS, these terminations are provided within a sub-harness that connects to the main harness via a 8-pin connector. If you are adding these instruments to a model without a fairing, then you may be building this sub-harness yourself, in which case your new wiring will need entry into the headlamp shell. There are already small holes punched in the upper portion of the shell and these are filled with rubber plugs. Push these out and add 1/4" grommets to the existing holes. 

► As always, when you add new or disconnect old wiring to check terminations, it is highly advisable to treat all male contact terminals with an electrical anti-oxidation compound, such as No-Ox-Id, before pushing the female terminal into position.

Hope this helps.