I have had a 1988 R100RT for about 4 months now. Upon buying it, I had to replace the oil pressure switch, it was leaking rather profusely. I ordered one and installed it, I think it even came from a dealer as well. Well, recently I picked up a few more oil leaks but this was my own doing...I overtightened the oil pan gasket, my own fault as I had a math error in converting units on my torque wrench. Got that all fixed up and cleaned up the bike. Still had a little oil dripping when I sat it on the side stand. Seemed to be coming off the center stand corner so this was tricky (corner of center stand when center stand is in the stow position). Finally, really cleaned it, I mean with degreaser, a hose and toweling dry. I ran it for about a 30 mile loop and brought her into the garage and put her up on the lift. All I can see now is that the oil pressure switch is very moist and it appears a few drops have hit the frame just below it. I am still checking the little "tray" under the rear main seal to make sure that is not the issue as well. This area is closest to where the leak was expressing itself to the ground. Kevin (FL Airmarshal even suggested some powder in there to check it, may try that next). I have also checked the valve guides upon advice from Wobbly and while there is evidence of some crud, I would hardly call this the source of the wet leak; but I am watching it! I ordered two more oil pressure switches from EME, these seem to be of good quality and I will inspect them against the one I am taking out as well. One question I have is, surely these do not fail this often? Right? I hope I got a lemon switch.
Does anyone have any experience with leaking elsewhere that I might try and spy as well? Any and all advice is welcome, I am trying educate myself and get her road worthy! I also want to plan for any major repairs as I am hosting a Tech Day at my home in Florida in late Oct. It should show up in the calendar soon. If not I will make sure to post details with address and contact in the Event section.
I like to install those oil pressure switches with a thread sealer, like LocTite 518 "gasket eliminator". That way, if the torque isn't enough to "activate" the supplied sealing washer, then you won't need to worry. I love this stuff becasue you don't need to get every molecule of oil off the threads for it to seal 100% and stop oil leaks. That feature also makes it perfect for oil drain bolts.
If you don't have a source for LocTite products near you and Amazon won't do, you can drop by your local Plymouth-Chrysler dealership and purchase it from their parts department as Mopar PN 4318083. See attachment.
The best thing is on items you disassemble, the old 518 simply flakes off like dead skin. You're not there for 3 hours with a scraper trying to get a clean, pristine surface for the new sealer to work.
Owning an old Airhead is easy.
Keeping an old Airhead running great is the true test.
I installed the new one yesterday and it is certainly of better quality, looks like better sealing in the business end. What I did discover is that the leak from indeed from the threads. I had is reasonably tight, I could not get a torque wrench in there without removing many more parts so an open end wrench was used. The new one had some tape on the threads, I used some good stuff that we use in the Brewery for our keg washer. Who knew there were grades of thread tape?
Torque to activate these washers seems rough. These parts and some new ones I have all seem to have Al washers. I think I shall source some copper as I think they "activate" easier or perhaps move to the sealant you recommend. Thanks for the advice.
I have two more projects and then I hope to be in maintenance mode and not chasing things...One is a valve adjustment. Just have delayed it until I sorted out the carbs and made sure all other things are right. Plus she seems to run smooth enough and if I trust the previous owner he did it within 1000 miles of me buying it. Second is adding progressive springs to the front end. I really would like to get rid of that 3 to 4 inch "dip" under front braking. After a motorcycle safety last week, I have also started using the rear must more for trail braking at low speeds. It really works and keeps the bike stable.
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