After taking my 1983 R80 RT to a local BMW repair shop for a safety check, two months later and almost $2,000 poorer, I was riding it home, when after about three miles there was a nasty clanging noise from the engine. Quickly shut it down and stopped on the side of the road and called the shop. They picked it up a half hour later and some days afterward told me to come to the shop to see what happened. They showed me the big end bearing for the left piston connecting rod mostly destroyed, and small metal bits in the engine. There is also scoring on the crankshaft where it meets the bushing. The shop had replaced the alternator and starter, done an oil change, checked the valve clearances, and done a test ride. Any way to figure out what happened? I have had this bike 17 years and never any significant issues.
How many miles on the motorcycle?
The only service on the list that might have an effect on the internal motor parts would be the oil change. Did the oil pressure indicator light (which is amber, not red) flicker or turn on?
On an airhead made after 1976, it is possible to assemble the oil filter chamber incorrectly, resulting is a loss of oil pressure.
former Airmarshal, IL.
When I bought the bike, the odometer was not working. One of the many things I fixed over the years. I probably put less than 10k miles on it.
About ten years ago I replaced the rings, and the cylinder walls looked like new.
The oil pressure indicator was disconnected, as the fairing was off, the oil line capped. Before my first long ride I planned to install an oil pressure gauge.
After I told the shop there are internet postings on "the $2,000 o-ring", they emailed me they will not work on the bike any more, and want me to pick it, boxes of disassembled engine parts and all.
I have done many oil and filter changes and never had an issue. Funny thing, I never asked them to do an oil change, just a safety check and look for anything that might be causing a loss of power. They said the alternator was not working, causing the spark plugs to only fire off the battery, resulting in a substantial loss of power. They also replaced the battery without checking with me, even though I had installed a new (Lithium-Ion) one a month earlier.
I guess we now have to do all our own work?
..."I guess we now have to do all our own work?....
I made that decision many years ago.
I guess you could open up the oil filter chamber to see if anything is obviously wrong. You might try to lean on them for some kind of compensation. Independent shop, or BMW dealership? My only experience with BMW dealerships lately has been helping other Airhead members to put right what dealership messed up, and charged the owner for the effort. Needless to say, I will never darken the doorway of a BMW dealership. We are on our own.
Where are you located? I have an R80 motor that dropped a valve on the right side, The bottom end might be O.K.
former Airmarshal, IL.
That's really a shame.
1) I'd cancel the credit card payment or stop payment on the check immediately. Shops are not infallible, and any shop too busy or too proud to admit their mistake and make it right doesn't deserve to be paid. I've had occasion to rebuild engines for free myself. It's not very fun, but it's the right thing to do. It's scary that they don't even want to talk about making it right.
Then I'd consider suing them in Small Claims Court.
2) It was most likely the oil filter change that did it. If it wasn't the $2000 o-ring, then it was from installing the wrong style oil filter. I know of at least 3 different oil filters for the Airheads, and they all look pretty much the same to a novice.
3) The bearings and gaskets are fairly cheap, but getting the crankshaft re-ground is really difficult. In the 70's lots of machine shops did it, but car engines run so much longer now that all those guys closed up. Buying a complete bottom end is definitely the way to go. The only reason not to buy a used engine is if you need that particular engine number due to a special model or limited edition.
Owning an old Airhead is easy.
Keeping an old Airhead running great is the true test.
..."The only reason not to buy a used engine is if you need that particular engine number due to a special model or limited edition."...
Numbers matching carries a premium return on bikes like a Harley Knucklehead, or Indian 4, or R90S. Maybe not so much on An R80RT. However, if the case is not damaged, preserving matching numbers, such as there might be any, is achievable.
I'm going to guess that Pete may not be up to a partial or total engine re-build or even a swap out, given that he engaged a shop for a safety check up. It would be interesting to know what shop committed a foul like that.
I would advise Pete to contact his airmarshal to explore the possibility of getting some assistance in erasing this error. Another option would be to sue the offending shop, sell or part out the wounded bike, take the money and get another airhead.
former Airmarshal, IL.
All good ideas and thoughts, thanks. I could rebuild the bike myself, but the many hours in my garage would not be fair to my wife, and I would rather be doing other stuff, including riding. I live on the left coast, so no long winters here to spend in the garage. Would like to know more about assistance from airmarshal.
Anyone know the specific procedure to use, to determine what caused the bearing to fail? "Airhead CSI"? For example, if we know how the oil flows, could look at each bearing and crankshaft surface, one by one, note severity of damage, etc. ?
Many years ago, I had a BSA Thunderbolt that developed a rod knock after an episode of spirited riding. I never did determine the exact cause. Are you in possession of the motorcycle? If so, you might remove the oil filter cover and take measurements to determine if the oil filter was properly installed.
Your airmarshal might be able to put you in touch with another member who lives nearby that could demonstrate this procedure or assist you. As a general rule, I put the assembly back together the same way it came apart only using a new O-ring every time. If the repair shop did an oil change and charged you for a filter, that could be the most likely indicator that the oil filter chamber was opened up. Any shop that works on Airheads should know about the O-ring.
If your oil pressure indicator was non-functional, and you knew that, you were walking on thin ice, and have now been adversely affected. If the repair shop didn't know that the oil pressure indicator was non-functioning, the mechanic would have no indication of impending disaster. I am not aware of any Airhead that came with an oil pressure gauge as standard equipment. Every one I ever owned only had the indicator light(s) on the instrument cluster.
former Airmarshal, IL.
Anyone know the specific procedure to use, to determine what caused the bearing to fail? "Airhead CSI"? For example, if we know how the oil flows, could look at each bearing and crankshaft surface, one by one, note severity of damage, etc. ?
You need the help of a professional BMW mechanic certified on Airheads. As was said, your Airmarshal can direct you to the best local shop for this purpose.
It's not as difficult as say a murder investigation. There is only one oil source and the oil follows a specified route each time the engine is cranked. What you need is someone who knows what the correct oil filter and white o-ring look like, and how to properly install them. They can probably find the problem within 15 minutes once the bike is on the rack. The problem will be blatantly obvious to someone who actually knows what they are doing.
Don't forget the photographs in case you go to court.
Hope this helps.
Owning an old Airhead is easy.
Keeping an old Airhead running great is the true test.
Your comment " Oil pressure switch not connected " doesn't help the situation but it helps point to the cause, either lack of oil or no pressure. Seeing as the oil and filter was just changed I don't think you have to look any further. The bearings will not run long without oil.
So it sounds like the shop didn't put the oil filter etc back together properly, but I'm curious about two things, was there any oil leaking from either the drain plug or filter area and secondly, how much oil was left in the engine when it was torn down. I guess there is always the possibility that something blocked the oil passage to that bearing and looking at the other bearings would help in your diagnosis.
The $ 2000 dollar O ring is much talked about but with the different filters, can depth etc, the simple solution is just put back in what came out. Not complicated. Always check that the white O ring is being compressed.
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