I changed the oil/filter and replaced the oil pan gasket on my 71 R60/5. Aside from breaking off one of the oil filter cover bolts (which I managed to extract) everything seemed to go well. However, when I push the nail down, the yellow oil indicator light does not come on.
What did I miss, screw up, disconnect?
However, when I push the nail down, the yellow oil indicator light does not come on.
Brian -
Welcome aboard !
• I'm not sure what "nail" you are talking about here, but we'd like to help. Can you be more clear or possibly include a photo?
• OEM oil pressure switches go bad all the time, usually from leaking first, but the internal switches do fail. You can test for this easily by unplugging the wire from the oil pressure switch (located near the g/b shift lever) and making the contact touch the engine case or any convenient "ground". The dash lamp should go ON and OFF with your manual contacting (when the ignition switch is in the ON position).
• The only other failure point is the bulb itself. You can remove the headlamp and access the bulb holder from the underside. Once removed, you can use the motorcycle's battery (or a battery charger) to test the bulb.
• On bikes this old that have been ridden in all sorts of weather and washed a gazillion times, it's important to note that electrical connectivity can suffer through contact corrosion due to age and water. I highly suggest you procure any one of the anti-oxidation compounds commonly available (No-Ox-ID, Deoxit, or similar) and begin to use it religiously. For example... when you work on the oil pressure switch, simply apply a small dab of compound to the male contact before plugging the female socket back into place. You can even coat the bases of any bulbs. It only takes a very SMALL amount per contact.
If you'll make a practice of this as you work on various electrical components, or even harness connectors and relay contacts, then over the years to come, your lights will get brighter, your horn will get louder, and your charging system will begin to work much better. This stuff lowers the resistance to electrical flow by eliminating the corrosion caused by long term oxidation on everything from dash lamps to battery terminals.
Hope this helps.
Owning an old Airhead is easy.
Keeping an old Airhead running great is the true test.
There is nothing in the oil filter cavity or oil pan that would, by itself, disable the oil pressure light. Check around the oil pressure sending unit. it's on the motor case on the left side down low, and should have 2 wires connected. For the light to be illuminated, the switch would have continuity when the oil pressure drops below a minimum value. I would call that normally closed. When the oil pressure comes up, the switch goes open and the light goes out. That would suggest that the indicator and light has an open connection in the system. It could be as simple as a wire come loose, poor connection, etc.
former Airmarshal, IL.
On my ‘78 R100/7, the wire lead to the oil pressure switch is a single conductor. When there is no oil pressure, the switch grounds out and lights the dash indicator. When pressure is present, the switch opens, no more ground and no more dash indicator.
So, as wobbly says, if you pull the lead off the switch and ground it, the dash indicator should illuminate (with key in run position).
Thank you for the information. Sorry, the nail I was referring to is the ignition "key". I will definitely try the grounding technique first and have also ordered a new switch and will replace the old one as I figure for $24 it can't hurt. My fear is that I may have broken a wire at the connector.
Thanks for the quick replies and great info. You have put my mind at ease as it seems like a simple system. I have looked at the wiring diagram and it seems to be one wire between the bulb and the switch.
Thanks again!
Sorry, the nail I was referring to is the ignition "key".
Ah, slang. Sorry, it's been at least 30 years since I've heard that title.
Now, if I could only figure out what a "light leak" is. ?
Owning an old Airhead is easy.
Keeping an old Airhead running great is the true test.
I just went out and had a look at my /5. Yep, 1 wire, I was WRONG,....AGAIN.
former Airmarshal, IL.
I just went out and had a look at my /5. Yep, 1 wire, I was WRONG,....AGAIN.
If you're going to be a helpful Club member, then get used to being wrong some of the time.
Thankfully, being 100% correct all the time is not in the Club cannons.
Owning an old Airhead is easy.
Keeping an old Airhead running great is the true test.
Thanks for the help. After cleaning the connections with no luck, grounded out the connector on the frame and light illuminated. Good thing I pre-ordered a new switch as it arrived a few days after running the preliminary tests. Installed it and light illuminated.
Now on to the next issue.
These are now Classic bikes, some nearing 50 years in age. Back in their prime they were ridden by the thousands across the country in every type of weather, carrying/towing God-only-knows what, to attend multiple BMW rallies each year. So "Yes", some minor maintenance should be expected. ?
When you install the switch, I highly recommend treating the threads with one of the several LocTite brand of "Gasket Makers", typically in the 500 series of product numbers. This product is also sold at your local Dodge-Chrysler dealership as MOPAR 4318083.
Glad you got it all worked out.
Owning an old Airhead is easy.
Keeping an old Airhead running great is the true test.
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