Yesterday I was working to get my R65 out of the basement and was halfway up the ramp when I stalled the bike but all of a sudden nothing is happening when I turn the key as in the generator light does not come on and the ignition is not on. When I turn the key all the way the lights do still come on. I checked the fuses first but they were fine. It felt like a fuse as it was an instant thing. Any thoughts on what the next thing to try or look at would be? I'm thinking of pulling the tank and having a look at the relays etc under there.
thanks folks
[Mods added year]
Having a year model would help !
On bikes with the factory electronic ignition, under the front engine cover there is a cream or tan 3-pin connector coming out of the ignition "bean can" (the round housing containing the hall sensors). It plugs into a black 3-pin receptacle coming from the harness. Due to the length of both wires this connector pair can be anywhere in the top portion of the front engine compartment. Defeat the anti-disconnect device, and unplug those 2 connectors.
If that Cream/Tan connector is cracked, crazed, chipped, broken, fractured, or in any way not in absolutely 100% perfect condition, then you'll need to pull the Bean Can off the engine and replace that lead. The only replacements I'm aware of are the pre-connected leads (aka "pigtails") from Rick Jones at Motorrad Elektrik ( http://motoelekt.com/ ). These are NOT shown on their web page.
Repair Procedure
• Scribe the position between the Bean Can and the engine. The Bean Can comes off the engine with with 2 bolts. Take it to the workbench, disassemble and solder in the new "pig tail". If you are not versed in soldering for electronics, then find someone who is VERY good at it. The reliability of your engine depends upon the quality of the soldered connection.
• Reassembly is the reverse. The Bean Can rotor can only fit the crank one way. Mount the body of the module back on the engine with the scribe marks aligned. Plug the old and new connectors together (hopefully with an anti-oxidant compound applied to the 3 male electrical contacts). Time the engine at very high RPM using an ignition strobe lamp to make sure the Full Advanced timing divot (typically at the "F") is in the dead center of the window. Ignore the Idle or Slow Speed timing marks. Rotate the Bean Can in tiny increments as required to bring that Full Advance mark to the center of the timing window.
Hopwe this helps.
Owning an old Airhead is easy.
Keeping an old Airhead running great is the true test.
Sorry, mine is an '82 R65 LS. Does this still apply for that year?
I took the cover off to have a look and that connector is totally good, zip tied in place and solid. Everything else in there looks fine and all other connections are good.
Any other thoughts on why the connection to the key/starter etc would totally quit all of a sudden? As I said it was on and then it was off just like if a fuse had blown.
I don’t have a R65, and I don’t have a ‘82, and I don’t have a schematic… but I’m still gonna take a guess at the starter relay, which is maybe under the tank? Mine went poof on a trip one time, and think the symptoms were very similar.
I took the cover off to have a look and that connector is totally good, zip tied in place and solid. Everything else in there looks fine and all other connections are good.
But did you bother to unplug the 2 connectors ?
Owning an old Airhead is easy.
Keeping an old Airhead running great is the true test.
I did not unplug the connectors just gave them a look.
I think I have a spare starter relay that I can check.
Good to have a little look around as it hasn't been on the road in some time. But the idiot in me forgot to check the kill switch first! Oops. In my defence it's hidden by the GPS holder so I can't see it. Problem solved!
Ha! You pranked yourself. I’ve done that, and my switch is visible. Occasionally, the kill switch would get flipped by my tank bag when maneuvering the bike around. So, … the last time I was in the headlight to replace my signal flasher, I eliminated the kill switch from the power circuit to the coils.
That's not a bad idea. That's the 2nd time I've done it to myself with numerous results. The other day my carb was leaking so I pulled the float bowl and cleaned the gasket etc and it seems to be fixed.
I need to get into changing the gear oil etc soon too.
1983 R65
After 30 -40 years replacing all the under tank electronics seems wise considering historical conditions of decay and the electrical revolution that has occurred after our bikes were born.
what do you all think of this statement?
I'm doing this slowly as funds become available (wife) also replacing brittle sections of the wires and filing the corrosion off and lightly greasing all the ground connections and cleaning everything meticulously
LOL, I have done the kill switch panic dance as well, usually not at a time I want to play. I would have given advice to start simple, LOL, check the kill switch position, then battery terminals. From there work up to the starter relay. After that climb the wiring ladder and check connections.
Anyway, thankfully it was a simple fix. Oh, it will happen again, LOL. St.
Beware! I do not suffer fools gladly! St.
As to replacing components, personally I say it depends on the life of the bike. If in 40 years you have ridden it only in the summer and wiring looks good. Perhaps a general check and clean of wiring blocks and connectors would be in order. The under tank module may have heat sink paste under it that should be checked and renewed.
Unless you are having an issue, I would suggest riding and replacing only upon failure. As far as I know, there is not mid way or loss of performance with an old under tank module, they just quit working. Pretty much the same goes with the bean can. While there are advance weights in the bean can that do wear or could use a shot of lube, again it depends on use of the bike
From my experience, I converted my 84 R80RT over from factory electronic ignition to the Alph system being sold at one time by Motorrad Electrik. The choice to do so was because of a long term intermittent ignition problem which in the long run turned out to perhaps be just a bad ground issue. There was never any smoking gun as to what was actually causing the problem.
Anyway, the Alpha system promised better performance and starting, sadly I have to say while it has been a trouble free system, it never lived up to the market hype. All things considered everything was the same as the OM stock system which I really didn't need to change now I have 20/20 hindsight.
So a lot of stuff here, take care and enjoy the riding. St.
Beware! I do not suffer fools gladly! St.
Merry merry to all y'all! The best of the holiday season to you!
I'm back to running pretty well but last day out the battery died again. I opened the cover again and one connection to the stator was a tiny bit loose. I gave it a squeeze but who knows when I'll get out for a longer run again for another test. It ran fine today for a little xmas joy.
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