FORUM

Notifications
Clear all

lost volt meter, horn, and turn signals simultaneously.

3 Posts
2 Users
0 Reactions
4,328 Views
Sid Cranston
(@bmwsid)
Posts: 16
Active Member
Topic starter
 

Bike still runs,and starts, lights still work. If I hold the 'flash hi beam' on, then everything works correctly, till I let the dimmer sw. back to neutral. It is a 1991 R100RT. I didnt think to try the volt meter on the battery while running to see if it is charging. I tried cleaning every plug and connector I could find, All looked good anyways. I need to buy the solid diode board mounts and install those. I did just replace the timing chain, but i did ride about 50 miles before this symptom showed up.
Any suggestions? Maybe a bad ground?
Sid, near Niagara Falls. NY

 
Posted : 03/31/2017 00:03
Richard W
(@wobbly)
Posts: 2597
Member
 

I am not familiar with your model or wiring, but on my model RT (1979) it is interesting to note that....

• The Hi Beam flasher function has it's own power feed into the handlebar switch. Both wires that supply power going into the switch are Green. Horn and Turn Signals are also in the same LH handlebar switch.

• Often times cleaning connectors is not good enough. Several items on my bike did not work at all after a 10 year storage until I applied a product called No-Ox (available on Amazon or Ebay) to several connectors inside the headlamp shell and under the tank. Application included unplugging each connector, applying a very small amount, and then re-plugging each connector.

• The horns are one of the higher current users in the electrical system. As such, the audible tone and clarity of the sound is usually the earliest sign of corroded connectors. Especially since the horns are located out in the weather, as opposed to (say for instance) the turn signal flasher or diode board.

Grounds are an interesting suggestion on your part. This is a VERY common issue on all motorcycles and one that is generally overlooked. Application of No-Ox is a definite "yes" on these too. Especially on both ends of the Airhead battery negative "ground" cable. This because the brass engine-side terminal on those cables is highly reactive with the aluminum engine case (classic galvanic corrosion). This makes the stock gearbox breather bolt connection HIGHLY suspect if you are still using the same battery cable after 20 years, since the original lead plating on the terminal is probably long gone !!

• My nearly year-long search for an intermittent connection was finally solved when I replaced the battery AND both battery cables. I mention this to you because you definitely disconnected the battery to work on the diode board. I suggest you go back and thoroughly clean that connection and re-attach it again. 50 miles is just enough time for battery acid present around the battery terminals to do it's "dirty work" and make these type problems show up.

Hope these ideas help. 😉

Owning an old Airhead is easy.
Keeping an old Airhead running great is the true test.

 
Posted : 04/01/2017 08:58
Sid Cranston
(@bmwsid)
Posts: 16
Active Member
Topic starter
 

Thanks, Wobbly. I will get after it tomorrow, looking into those connectors. The starter is strong, so I suspect the problem must be in the switch, although I did replace that about 5 years ago....And, I do not recall where the fuses might be! Only have had the bike since 1995! Have never blown a fuse! Maybe a bad connection there.

 
Posted : 04/01/2017 23:46

Advertisement

Scroll to top