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Headlight Troubleshooting

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John Saban
(@8775)
Posts: 7
Active Member
Topic starter
 

Have a 1976 R90/6 purchased new in 1976. Do not live on it as I used to, actually the last several years have seen perhaps a good two hour ride the entire season. This year did a Master Cylinder Rebuild then proceeded to start it up. Problem is that there is no Headlight. In troubleshooting the wiring in the Headlamp Circuit the problem seems to be with the Horn/ Light Switch. Removed the Switch from the Handlebar and started to dismantle the components.

First the small Cir-clip was removed from the On/Off Switch and was pulled out with difficulty as the Ball Spring got snagged between the plastic shaft and the housing.

Now realized that everything needed to be removed from the bike. Disconnected Horn/ Light Switch Wires from the Contact Plate inside Headlight and removed the Horn/ Light harness completely from the bike to work on inside.

Next job was to remove the rest of the components from the housing. On inspection it looked like the only way I was going to remove the remaining two switches was to dismantle the High/Low Beam Switch to allow the components to be removed. This Switch once removed, allowed the entire inside assembly to be removed. Was able to see why the High/Low Beam switch had been so sloppy. The Small Metal Ball Bearing which locates into Detents in that Switch Housing was missing. Proceeded to clean and reassemble the High/ Low Beam Switch using the Metal Ball from the On/ Off Switch which was going to be the last to be reinstalled.

Following this, the Horn Switch was disassembled, cleaned and reassembled.

With the On/ Off Switch jury rigged was able to test the functioning of the Switch.

As it turns out the internal assembly without the On/ Off Switch must be assembled as a unit. Man was it a struggle! The Hi/Low Beam Switch must be in the Hi Beam location and that part of the internal assembly has to be inserted first. The Horn Button must be pressed while exerting a lot of pressure and pulling on the Housing to get it to snap together. Final assembly is going to have to wait until a Small Metal Ball Bearing can be found.

Before starting the disassembly, looked at my BMW info (several Haynes Manuals) and on the internet and found very little. Will likely cannibalize one of my other /6's til mine gets fixed or the new one from Capital Cycle gets purchased.

Was wondering if anyone has any experience with these switches?

 
Posted : 07/17/2016 11:08
James Strickland
(@8053)
Posts: 423
Reputable Member
 

Experience, yeah, the last time I took one apart it exploded in to a million pieces. I didn't know quite what to expect and .....boom. I know for a fact from my /5's and from other riders reports, that there comes a time when these kind of parts are just plain worn out.

former Airmarshal, IL.

 
Posted : 07/17/2016 11:51
Richard W
(@wobbly)
Posts: 2590
Member
 

It's not just BMW, all these type switches are so small that they can be a real PIA to work on. The only real hope is to remove the entire switch and do the work on your dining room table over a bowl to collect all the springs, clips, and balls that pop out. Re-assembly with water-proof grease is highly advised.

Remember that the major reason for the switches going bad is soapy water from the high pressure jet spray car wash. The pressure washes out the grease, and the soap attacks the electrical contacts.

A good dowsing with contact cleaner and/or WD-40 will get these switches working again on the bike without disassembly in about 80% of the cases.

Owning an old Airhead is easy.
Keeping an old Airhead running great is the true test.

 
Posted : 07/17/2016 16:02
Mark Taylor
(@saxontaylor)
Posts: 6
Active Member
 

I used a small plastic spring clamp with the pads removed to aid in reassembly. It left just enough room to finagel the "end clip" back on the post.

 
Posted : 07/21/2016 05:48
John Saban
(@8775)
Posts: 7
Active Member
Topic starter
 

Thanks to everyone who responded to my post concerning the Horn/Headlight Switch. Managed to get everything back together by cannibalizing another of my BMW's Horn/Headlight Switch to obtain the small metal ball bearing, getting a 5mm package of washers from Canadian Tire to bend slightly to fit on the On/Off rotating lever stem, Use of a small clamp suggested by "Saxontaylor", the empty ballpoint plastic ink refill with the tip removed to hold and press the small metal ball bearing and spring into its burrow within the On/Off lever stem, and my Wife's two small steady hands to hold the Switch; was able to eventually put it all back together.

Have installed the Horn/Headlight Switch back where it belongs and it works.

Now I have to find somewhere where small metal ball bearings and small springs can be found to repair the canibalized switch.

 
Posted : 07/24/2016 00:33
Richard W
(@wobbly)
Posts: 2590
Member
 

Hey, that's great news !!

Bearing sellers sell small metric and inch sized ground balls. (Check Ebay, Amazon and McMaster) You'll need to purchase a box of 50, but loose balls are very inexpensive.

Owning an old Airhead is easy.
Keeping an old Airhead running great is the true test.

 
Posted : 07/24/2016 14:08
Jim Wilson
(@1559)
Posts: 206
Estimable Member

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