Hey sir, welcome to the group. I hope you get a good reference for a repair/maintenance shop shortly. If you were in Oklahoma I'd have the perfect place for you. Take care and again welcome! 🍻 🍻 🍻 

V/R Eric 

Welcome aboard !

What work is it you want done? I propose that the best mechanic is YOU the owner, because...

1. The guy at whatever shop you discover won't be there when the bike develops an issue out on the road.
2. Working on your own bike develops familiarity with where things are.
3. Because the BEST maintenance plan is prevention. Often, while in working on (for instance) the throttle cables, you may discover frayed wiring that WILL cause issues in the near future. 

Now if the shop is to install tires and balance wheels, or do a clutch job, then I can see that.

Consult your Airmail Newsletter for advertisers. 

Duncan's Beemers is in Mass. However, I agree with Richard about Learning to maintain and repair your own motorcycle.

You all are right. Context. I owned and repaired my 1976 R75/6 back in 1989-99. I just purchased a 1975 R60/6 that has VERY serious surging issues and I do not have the time right now to address it. 🙂  I will be going over the bike this winter. Love to wrench. Looking forward to the fellowship of the Airheads.  Former BMWMOA member. Mark

► Be aware that your R60 may have "pumper" type slide carbs, which are unlike the CV carbs on an R75, R80, R90 and R100 bikes. (R90S excluded.) So it's the more prevalent CV type that most of the younger Airhead mechanics are accustomed to working on. And because there are so few R60's, you may not be getting the "experienced help" you are paying for. I might have some interview questions ready for any mechanic. Just saying.

► Carb tuning is the ONLY "tuning" on the bike without measurable settings. All carb adjustments depend 100% upon all other parts of the engine and ignition system being adjusted correctly. Therefore, carb adjustments are ALWAYS done AFTER all the other tuning steps are completed. Therefore any mechanic worth his salt is going to need to adjust the valves, set the ignition timing by strobe lamp at high RPM, install new plugs, run a compression test, replace the plug caps and wires, replace the air filter... basically do a complete tune-up before they can look at the carbs. If you feel up to doing those things, then you can save yourself 2 hours of expensive labor by completing that part in your shop. 

► Additionally, I would be remiss if I did not tell you that the BIGGEST issue these days is quality of fuel. If you do not know the complete history of every drop of fuel in your bike, then empty every drop in the tank and carbs into your car. Then go buy some "high test" fuel from a "Top Tier" fuel supplier. Then read about Top Tier Fuels here: https://toptiergas.com/why_top_tier/

Modern ethanol laden fuels start to go "bad" in about 8 weeks. This is why modern vehicles have both fuel injection and an ignition control computer to change all sorts of engine settings so that junk fuel can be burned successfully. But... guess which vehicle in your garage does not have fuel injection AND does not have an on-board computer ? So you need to make up for that in your Airhead by only having fresh fuel. (And if you don't ride during winter months, then drain all fuel before winter storage too.)

Hope this helps.