This all started with some failing components on my 1980 R100RS. First was instrument cluster, replaced with KATDASH, then my starter went, replaced with EME Valeo, then once back up and running I noticed that my gen light was always on. I checked the voltage at the battery and noticed it wasn't charging. I tested my diode board and it appeared to have failed so replaced that (I later discovered that my multimeter was faulty). New diode board in and voltage regulator still no charge. Decided to just go for it and swap to the EME EDL4 charging system. Install seemed fine... pretty easy and straightforward.
All in, and now I have 16V at the battery at idle. What I read in the install instructions is that this is due to - a faulty ground or voltage lower than actual battery voltage supplied to the BLACK wire on the R/R. This is where I am at a loss. Can someone recommend on how I can troubleshoot this condition.
I installed everything per the directions except for the wire which was to run from condenser to coil negative. With the location of my condenser the wire was going to be short and this was noted as being for ignition only, my original ignition component is left in place. No problem with the bike starting and running so I am assuming this is not the issue. Bike has a dual spark setup.
I was going to try adding a ground wire to the regulator/rectifier. Currently it is just on the supplied mounting plate.
Any ideas or most common errs on this install? Thank you!
1. Tell me about the new Voltage Regulator.
I installed everything per the directions except for the wire which was to run from condenser to coil negative.
2. What condenser ?
Owning an old Airhead is easy.
Keeping an old Airhead running great is the true test.
Did this replacement system come with a supplied wiring diagram or just instructions on how to install? If you have a wiring diagram, you can post here, it would be helpful.
If not, I would ask the seller to see if they can supply one. St.
Beware! I do not suffer fools gladly! St.
The install instruction do not include a wiring diagram but they are pretty thorough... just depends on if your bike is stock or has been modified in anyway. link to their instruction manual EDL4 intsall
I asked EME for recommended steps on trouble shooting and they said to make sure the R/R has a solid ground to chassis. I am going to work on that first.
Next they said - Measure the voltage that is supplied to the BLACK wire. This is a KEY ON connection. All of the decisions the regulator rectifier makes is determined by the voltage supplied to this terminal
You can test the regulator rectifier. Check for continuity between all terminals all combinations (case is a ground terminal). ALL should be open. If there is continuity, then the regulator rectifier has failed.
The regulator rectifier has a trailer plug looking terminal block it plugs into.
Unplug all of the wires from the plug taking note where they go.
With the key ON. Measure the voltage at the black wire on the plug.
Then go to the regulator rectifier terminals, and test for continuity between all wires all combinations, including the case. All should be open. If you have continuity, then the regulator rectifier is failed.
I like to use the tone feature on a multi meter so you just have to listen for a tone.
I'm a novice here so the "check the voltage of the black wire part" is a bit of a head scratcher. My understanding is I would have my key in and in the on position. Also have my ignition switch in the on position? Then place one of my multimeter probes (red or black) on the black wire and the other probe on what?
Appreciate the help. Thank you
I can understand the confusion, I have been looking at the pictures on EME's website for this unit and sorry to say, I am having a hard time seeing what black wire they are talking about. From what I can see, the only black wire is to the coil, is this correct? So do you check for voltage on that wire?
Much as I would like to help, I will have to bow out as this is so different than the stock system. Maybe in time with a schematic I could venture a guess as to what goes where and what readings of voltage should be were as well as what should have continuity.
Sorry, Good luck, St.
Beware! I do not suffer fools gladly! St.
Eric,
The black wire in question is a battery voltage sense wire. It needs to be connected to the ignition system at a battery voltage location that is downstream from the ignition switch. If your bike uses points for the ignition system, you can connect the black wire to the positive terminal on the condenser. Or you could connect it to the positive side of the ignition coil.
The black wire does not supply voltage, it measures it. If the black wire is unconnected or misconnected, the alternator system will produce its maximum voltage, which is what you are seeing. Look at page 15 of the instructions, the "KEY ON" BATTERY VOLTAGE black connector must be connected to a switched ignition point.
The test that the manufacturer is asking you to perform should clearly state (but apparently does not): With all of the new charging system wiring harness connected and the ignition switched on, you should measure about 12.5 volts (battery voltage) from the black wire to ground. This voltage should drop to zero when the ignition switch is turned off.
Does this help you understand what needs to be connected where and how to measure the correct voltage when? If you still have questions, keep asking. We can get you through this problem. A 1980 R100RS is too sweet an airhead to not be on the road turning gasoline into satisfying smiles.
Andy Murphy
1995 R100RT
ABC# 15601
Thanks for the information Andy, LOL, when I upgraded my charging system I stuck to the Omega system. It uses the stock wiring harnesses and troubleshoots the same as the OM charging system.
LOL, I guess I can't wrap my head around a charging system that has to hook into the ignition system, though it makes some sense. St.
Beware! I do not suffer fools gladly! St.
Thanks Andy and Steve. I have been in touch with EME and they have been very helpful. Part of the issue is my inexperience with a multimeter and what to put where when testing. I was able to measure the voltage at the black wire with key and ignition on. It came in at 11.5v. I have the black wire connected to the positive side of coil. I didn't think of seeing what happened with the black wire voltage when I switched the ignition off.
EME said that is abnormally low and my issue could be a failed battery. I also tested the voltage of the battery while it was on the bike with the key out. That read 12.5v.
Then I removed the battery to load test it. Interesting when I checked battery voltage off the bike it read 13v. Load testing showed the battery is good... so next I am going to facetime with the EME engineer and see what else to troubleshoot. Will report back on findings. Let me know if you have any ideas.
Frankly, I think you are going in the right direction, and I have to say FaceTime with EME is a pretty good idea. St.
Beware! I do not suffer fools gladly! St.
FaceTimed and looked over the connections and double checked voltage readings. They are going to send a new voltage regulator to see if that does it. Everything looked correct for a new charging system installed on old bike. Hoping I don’t have to dig into the harness but whatever gets er road worthy
The new voltage regulator solved the problem!
That is good news, enjoy the riding from now until? LOL St.
Beware! I do not suffer fools gladly! St.
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