I stored my 95 R100RT without oil for many years and from what I’ve read I’m guessing I’ve ruined the engine. I’m open to any suggestions to determine if the engine is salvageable or not. Try not to judge me too harshly.
Welcome Aboard !
Well, let's consider that the oil level is well below all the running parts of the engine. Therefore, ALL stored BMWs are stored without oil. 😛
Put some oil in it, crank it, and go ride it.
Owning an old Airhead is easy.
Keeping an old Airhead running great is the true test.
Thank you for your reply, I can only hope for the best.
The bike was stored because it was smoking substantially on deceleration so I’m assuming it needs valve guides and the carbs need attention as well. I’m seeking a machinist who is knowledgeable of airheads on the East coast and worst case I’ll ship the heads to CA and have Ted restore them.
I have Oaks top end manual and looking forward to a top end rebuild. Should I consider new rings while it’s apart?
Unless you have 150,000+ miles on your bike then I highly doubt that your issue is worn valve guides and rings.
• Please take the time to find and read Snowbum's discussion of the engine breather system. Since you have a 1995 with the newer metal flapper valve that part won't apply to you, but the second part will. There is an oil return well, right next to the breather and starter motor. That well has a small hole in the bottom to return oil to the engine. If that small hole gets clogged, then oil freely flows into the intake to be burned on decell.
• This same oil burning can also be brought on by having a dirty or oil clogged air filter. The engine, which must have air, can't pull air through the air filter so it pulls it from the engine's breather system.
BOTH of these need to be checked immediately. You could have one or both issues going on.
• Also check the engine oil viscosity and API spec against the engine oil requirements.
Hope this helps.
Owning an old Airhead is easy.
Keeping an old Airhead running great is the true test.
I agree with Wobbly draining the oil before storage isn't a big worry.
The East Coast is a long stretch of Coast 🙂 I redid my heads about 3 years ago. I bought most of the parts then had Max BMW in NH do the machine work and assembly. With about 6k since and mostly at 75mph+/- doing IronButt rides, zero problems with the heads and I check them every 1000 miles or so.
Smoke only on off throttle sure sounds like valve stem seals. The engine develops a might big vacuum when the throttle is snapped closed and the engine is back driven by the tire. Valve seals are pretty easy to replace on an Airhead.
The valve stems and guides can be evaluated by looking at the head with the rocker over off. Some exhaust gas will always blow by the exhaust valve guide and it will make brown deposits on the head you are looking at. light deposits right around the base of the spring = all is good. Dark deposits covering more than half the chamber = $$$$.
Same story with the intake side. Should only be nice clean gas and air blowing past that guide (unless an evil K&N filter was installed) so that side of the head should show no deposits. If any are found then exhaust gas is blowing into the intake tract. Sticking valve? Extremely weird tuning? All = $$$$
Then pull both plugs and turn the engine by hand with a Streamlight Stylus flashlight poked into the spark plug hole. Observe the valves opening and closing. The valve lips and seats can be clearly seen as can the depth of the valves in the seats. Good, bad?
Check the piston crown for carbon when it comes up.
Compression and leak down tests tell the story on the rings. No such thing as "while I'm in there", it's just too easy to go back---cheep too.. The only thing I would do any time the heads are off is push rod tube seals if one is fussy about an ancient bike weeping a bit.
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