Before I jump into this problem which I fear may be large. I thought I’d just check to make sure there isn’t something very obvious that I am overlooking.
This bike sat for many years in relative shelter. In an open ended building, but in a quite dry climate. In the far right of Washington State.
The issues:
I installed a fully charged XL30 AGM, new +&- ve cables to ground and starter.
Here’s what works, parking lights, same lights with ignition on.
Headlight flasher works as does the headlight.
Signal lights both sides and dash.
Break light on both brakes.
Light switch appears to work but no high and low beam.
Engine off/on/off switch appears to work as I get dash and tail lights.
Power to the coils and I get a nice bright spark when opening and closing the points.
What’s not working:
Starter does not engage when button pushed.
Horn .
I’ve just repaired the brake master cylinder as it lost all its fluid, I don’t know how long this had been an issue, but it was long enough to attack the paint of the main top tube of the frame.
There was evidence that the previous battery ( probably the original) had at one time puked out enough acid to put various frame parts around the right hand side swing arm pivot.
I have installed an electronic charge relay thinking it was problematic.
Both fuses on the connector block are in good shape, zero resistance across them.
This is either something very simple or I’m going to spend a long time tracing power
Thanks in advance
Michael
Thanks Scott
I’ve got a good clear schematic ( 2 actually, one in workshop manual and a great coloured one from the Airheads library.
I’ll stay with the starter relay, it us directly under the Master cylinder.
Then move on to the actual handlebar switches, they’ll need a clean after all this time anyway.
That’s tomorrow’s tasks.
M
What’s not working: Starter does not engage when button pushed. Horn.
I’ve just repaired the brake master cylinder as it lost all its fluid, I don’t know how long this had been an issue, but it was long enough to attack the paint of the main top tube of the frame.
The Starter Relay physically sits just below the Brake M/C. Anytime brake fluid leaks from the reservoir on the under-tank m/c Airhead models, the relay takes a bath in a caustic liquid that is harmful to the relay connections AND the contacts inside the relay. A very serious look at the relay connections and functions is probably in order.
Owning an old Airhead is easy.
Keeping an old Airhead running great is the true test.
Boxer 2 Valve has a video on their YouTube channel covering test procedure on the starter relay for the /6 series. Checking the relay would be good place to start, as noted above.
Wow,
I’ve never seen Boxer 2 Valve before. I’ve been playing on airheads for about 15 yrs and never knew it existed fir either parts or the videos. Thanks for the info. Now I have something else to binge watch for the next few weeksLOL.
Michael
First-off, I have a /7 which is wired somewhat different than a /6. But the concepts are the similar.
I took a look at the wiring diagram for your bike in my Clymer manual.
* Did you check all the fuses on the circuit board? I suspect you have a blown fuse.
* It appears one side of your starter motor has a constant 12V hooked up to it directly from the battery all times.
* The ground to your starter motor is what gets switched through the starter relay.
* So, all your starter needs to turn, is a good ground from the starter relay.
* With a ohm meter make sure your emergency stop switch is off(open) and not internally shorted. You'll have to take it off you handlebar perch so you can get to the back side to test.
* Make sure your clutch switch is working correctly. 
These are some ideas to get you started. Hope something helps.
I’ve just repaired the brake master cylinder as it lost all its fluid, I don’t know how long this had been an issue, but it was long enough to attack the paint of the main top tube of the frame.
The Starter Relay physically sits just below the Brake M/C. Anytime brake fluid leaks from the reservoir on the under-tank m/c Airhead models, the relay takes a bath in a caustic liquid that is harmful to the relay connections AND the contacts inside the relay. A very serious look at the relay connections and functions is probably in order.
If this bike IS a /7 as Blue-1 indicated, then the problem for Starter Relays is even worse. The /6 starter relay is a metal can with contact on the bottom. When it starts "raining brake fluid", the contacts are somewhat sheltered. But on /7 bikes they went with the "mini-cube" type relay. Those contacts face upward, which makes the caustic brake fluid puddle on the Start Relay contacts.
:ohmy:
Owning an old Airhead is easy.
Keeping an old Airhead running great is the true test.
Quick update to thanks those who gave suggestions.
It turns out the Starter relay was fine, I traced the non turnover issue to a faulty clutch switch.
The headlight issue was the relay, Im amazed at the cost of this relay that has one tiny difference in its internal circuitry from something that costs $10 at Napa!
The horn issue, is a bad horn, popped a spare from a /5 in and voila noise.
Thanks again for the help.
M
Hope this all means you're back on the road !
Owning an old Airhead is easy.
Keeping an old Airhead running great is the true test.
Errrr, not quite yet, this isn't so much of a restoration as getting a bike that what parked for 25 yrs running again.
Two items left to sort out.
1. This bike came with Morris mags but the rear disc didn't use the R100S Brembo Master and brake cylinders. It used Hearst Airheart, parts for which are now extinct. So I've searched fleabay and got the necessary major parts, small parts from Bobs BMW on the way. Major resto on the Master and Slave cyls.
2. And finally ( I hope) I'm waiting for two nipples for the tops of the Dellortos. The bike came with a few spares that the son of the deceased owner had bought, thinking he would ride it. Unfortunately the cables that he bought are the new ones listed in the fiche. My carbs still had the elbows on top. Without a video chat with Mike Cecchini I would still be trying to figure out how to stretch them to get the slides and needles in.
Item !. Should read NOW extinct not Not
[Mods: No need to make a second post. Simply EDIT the existing post. ]
Motobins in UK sells correct length cables for the early Del carbs. Last check, they were in stock.
Sounds like you got the shorter ones to work though. I've seen where the cable sheathing can be trimmed to accommodate the elbow on the early carb tops.
Cheers
Thanks for the cable tip!
Still not quite done yet, nipples still en route LOL.
M
Quick update,
The cable nipples arrived. I had to strip the tank coating that had been applied by some one trying to mask what would have been a rusty tank after the bike sat for 30 years. When I finally got the silver junk out I had solid lumps of coating 1/2” thick from the forward end of the tank. It took a week of pea gravel and a bicycle chain to break it all out. I used the German product sold by Boxer 2 Valve. I now have a tank that looks original inside, as the coating is the same red as original.
After10 days I added fuel, gave it some choke and after 30 yrs she fired up in the 3 rd attempt.
Now I have an issue with the left carb leaking fuel. I took the bowl off, held the float closed and fuel came out if the accelerator jet. I haven’t had time to examine the circuit of the Dellorto’s yet so I’m not sure what’s happening.
It did sound sweet though.
More new to follow.
Michael
Quick update,
The cable nipples arrived. I had to strip the tank coating that had been applied by some one trying to mask what would have been a rusty tank after the bike sat for 30 years. When I finally got the silver junk out I had solid lumps of coating 1/2” thick from the forward end of the tank. It took a week of pea gravel and a bicycle chain to break it all out. I used the German product sold by Boxer 2 Valve. I now have a tank that looks original inside, as the coating is the same red as original.
After10 days I added fuel, gave it some choke and after 30 yrs she fired up in the 3 rd attempt.
Now I have an issue with the left carb leaking fuel. I took the bowl off, held the float closed and fuel came out if the accelerator jet. I haven’t had time to examine the circuit of the Dellorto’s yet so I’m not sure what’s happening.
It did sound sweet though.
More new to follow.
Michael
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