New to the community so apologies if the answer is out there and I just haven't found it. I've been working my way through snowbums tomes gleening as much wisdom as I can but still feel uncertain where to even start.
I recently bought a 1983 R65 that had been sitting for some time with only short intermittent rides but decently maintained. I rode it 1.5hrs back to my house without any issues. It sat for two weeks while I jumped through the various registration and title transfer hoops. After two weeks I changed the engine oil and filled up the tank with premium gas and set out ready to ride. That day I rode 30 minutes I'm start and stop traffic, the bike sat for about an hour than I rode another 30 minutes in start and stop traffic. The bike sat for another 1.5hrs before I got on to head a short 15 minute ride home. When I went to start the bike it struggled but turned over. I was able to make it maybe 2 minutes before I could tell it wanted to die on me. When I released the throttle the GENlight came on and the engine died. Trying to start it again got nothing but rapid clicks from the solenoid. I let it sit for about 10 minutes before attempting again after which it struggled but started up. I was able to get it home but maintaining the throttle constantly even while idling.
Thinking it was perhaps the battery, I pulled out the less than 8 month old AGM battery and charged it. I connected a voltmeter after hooking the battery up and attempted to start it again. The voltage without load was 12.7V but drops to 11.2V when the starter is engaged. None the less it was able to start but still died after 4-5 minutes of idling. I removed the spark plugs and found them in fine condition and sparking blue with only a hint of orange. I took the carb float bowls off and found red debris in both bowls. Also gas would only flow when the petcock was in the ON position, not in RESERVE. After attempting to start again I needed a jump to get it to turn over and was able to get it to idle for 5-10 minutes with the choke mostly open.
At this point I'm thinking there are multiple issues going on
1. I've got clogged fuel filters or possibly a faulty petcock or both.
2. I've potentially got a gunked up or faulty starter.
3. I've got a bad connection somewhere.
Looking for any thoughts or suggestions. With the good weather window quickly evaporating I'm anxious to get riding, but I also want to take the time to learn about my bike and correctly resolve the issue. Thank you in advance!
@8166
Scot thank you so much for taking the time for the detailed response! I am going to follow your instructions and will post back with an update as soon as I can.
Cheers!
I recently bought a 1983 R65 that had been sitting for some time with only short intermittent rides but decently maintained. I rode it 1.5hrs back to my house without any issues. It sat for two weeks while I jumped through the various registration and title transfer hoops. After two weeks I changed the engine oil and filled up the tank with premium gas and set out ready to ride. That day I rode 30 minutes in start and stop traffic, the bike sat for about an hour then I rode another 30 minutes in start and stop traffic. The bike sat for another 1.5hrs before I got on to head a short 15 minute ride home. When I went to start the bike it struggled but turned over. I was able to make it maybe 2 minutes before I could tell it wanted to die on me. When I released the throttle the GEN light came on and the engine died. Trying to start it again got nothing but rapid clicks from the solenoid. I let it sit for about 10 minutes before attempting again after which it struggled but started up. I was able to get it home but maintaining the throttle constantly even while idling.
Welcome Aboard !
Allow me to comment on your input, in order...
• What you're experiencing could a fuel issue or a charging issue. Or, since the bike sat so long... BOTH. More testing is needed.
Thinking it was perhaps the battery, I pulled out the less than 8 month old AGM battery and charged it. I connected a voltmeter after hooking the battery up and attempted to start it again. The voltage without load was 12.7V but drops to 11.2V when the starter is engaged. None the less it was able to start but still died after 4-5 minutes of idling. I removed the spark plugs and found them in fine condition and sparking blue with only a hint of orange. I took the carb float bowls off and found red debris in both bowls. Also gas would only flow when the petcock was in the ON position, not in RESERVE. After attempting to start again I needed a jump to get it to turn over and was able to get it to idle for 5-10 minutes with the choke mostly open.
• And what was the voltage on the battery when you removed it from the bike to charge it? You took voltage readings AFTER charging, but want us to tell you what was going on before you charged it. So there's a disconnect here. More data is needed on the failed condition, not the restored condition.
• You cannot tell if a battery is good or charged with a handheld VOM. For that you need a specialized battery test meter. Unlike other electrical components, a battery is based in chemistry and therefore has many more conditions than the digital good-bad of a bulb or fuse.
• This is an air cooled engine. Idling for 4-5 minutes CANNOT help a 40 year old engine and will not prove anything, but it can damage the engine.
• The red stuff is the lining is coming out of the fuel tank due to age. It happens. You will want to remove the tank and flush it out, blow down though the petcocks and fuel lines and clear all residue from there, then clean the carbs paying special attention to the float valves. Since the red debris won't stop unless you treat the tank (POR15 is good), you'll need to put things back together with a new fuel filter on both sides.
• Again, what can you possibly learn from allowing an air-cooled engine to idle that long ? Exactly what result were you expecting ? If you want to know if the bike runs, then take it out and run it. Idling proves nothing.
• The bike probably would not start because the battery had not been charged... by riding at road speeds. Starting takes a lot out of the battery, and so the battery depends upon the owner to spin the alternator at speeds above ~3000 RPM for 30 minutes or more to replace it. Electrical energy can exit a battery very fast, but it is replenished very slowly. So TIME at a road speed RPM is required.
► Also, you need to modernize your bike's electrical system in order to bring it up to date. 1) To charge a modern battery, an Airhead requires a higher charge rate than what was needed in 1983. You need the solid-state voltage regulator for AGM batteries from Motorrad Eliktrik to raise your charge levels. Then, you need to cut your system load by installing an H4 LED headlamp bulb replacement. Something like THIS one. That will use 2/3rds LESS power and leave more to charge the battery.
• "Chokes mostly open." These bikes don't have a traditional butterfly choke system, but rather an enrichener circuit that dumps extra fuel into the intake. The bike is cranked with the enrichener, then turned OFF within 1 minute. Leaving the enrichener open is a very bad idea. Like the extended idling, it proves nothing.
At this point I'm thinking there are multiple issues going on
1. I've got clogged fuel filters or possibly a faulty petcock or both.
2. I've potentially got a gunked up or faulty starter.
3. I've got a bad connection somewhere.
Looking for any thoughts or suggestions. With the good weather window quickly evaporating I'm anxious to get riding, but I also want to take the time to learn about my bike and correctly resolve the issue. Thank you in advance!
1. Comments and corrective advice given above for this.
2. Traditionally, the starter motor bearings need re-packing after 40 years, but nothing else you've described tells me there is anything wrong with your starter.
3. The only disconnect I see is that of "operator error". Yes, you have some traditional aging of the fuel system that needs cleaning out, but that is straight forward and easy to do. You also need the electrical system updates mentioned above. Other than that, you need to understand that idling the engine simply over-heats and damages the engine. The engine was designed to run at 3000 to 5000 RPM, not sit around and idle.
My friend, 98% of the issues you describe will magically disappear when you finally get the bike out on the open road and Ride it !!
All the best.
Owning an old Airhead is easy.
Keeping an old Airhead running great is the true test.
@wobbly Thank you for the thorough response and information.
@thomas-selby Start with 30-40 mile rides, that get longer and longer going into the autumn. By September's end your "trust levels" will be way up and you'll be ready for 300 mile weekend rides. Sure, you're bound to discover some hiccups along the way... the bike is, after all, 40 years old. But Airheads don't have the disastrous "blown up gearbox" type issues you might discover on an English or Jap bike. Airhead issues are more like one of the turn signals won't light up, or renewing the thermal compound on the electronic ignition module heat sink. These are things you can do yourself, and we'll be here to guide you.
I'm going to look for that article that Scot mentioned, so stay tuned....
Owning an old Airhead is easy.
Keeping an old Airhead running great is the true test.
Here's a good list of items to check on a new-to-you Airhead....
Owning an old Airhead is easy.
Keeping an old Airhead running great is the true test.
@wobbly Thank you for the reference! Much needed.
I took the bike back out recently after charging the battery and getting it started with some struggle. None the less it turned over and I went on a longer ride with highway stretches getting the rpms over 4000 for 20-30 minute stretches. The GEN light was coming on early in the ride while idling and it stalled on me at a light getting out of the city but I was able to get it started again and didn't have issues after that.
Unrelated, but I noticed more dry rot on the tires than I had previously seen when inspecting the tread. Currently working on getting new tires before I feel comfortable taking it back out. In the meantime I plan on cleaning the fuel tank and electrical terminals as per Scot's suggestion and reviewing the items on that list you shared. All in all, I think besides some minor issues exacerbated by novice operator error as you said, the bike is fine and just needs to be run. Thanks again for the help.
Tom -
So glad this is all starting to make sense.
1) Alternator lamp coming ON while idling at traffic stops is pretty normal. Should go out at 1200 RPM and above. For better charging, check these small inexpensive items...
- the alternator brushes... especially if the bike has 50,000 miles plus
- the voltage regulator... the mechanical OEM units are worn out after 40 years... replace
- and always check for the presence of the alternator "warning" lamp before starting
2) Yes, motorcycle tires age faster than car tires. Motorcycle tires over 6 or 7 years are ancient history. The tires are marked with a manufacture date, and that should be inspected. The cheapest tires I can recommend are the Bridgestone Spitfire S11 tires, but if you prefer something German, then there are plenty of those. Others can help you there. The MAIN thing with tires is the WIDTHS because you MUST not rub the drive shaft housing. If you have a lot of roadway grooving in your area, then a front "block tread" (like the S11) will steer MUCH better than a traditional "rib" front tire.
3) Also, your poor starting may be inside the starter motor. Please read this...
https://www.airheads.org/community/wrenching/suggested-winter-maintenance-the-starter-motor/
I'm aware that all this is a bit like drinking from a fire hose, but if you carry out each step methodically, you won't need to touch it again for another 5 years. And I really can't emphasize enough simply getting some miles on the bike. Airheads really do reward their owners.
Hope this helps.
Owning an old Airhead is easy.
Keeping an old Airhead running great is the true test.
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