Finding a switch to do the electrical task is fairly easy. Finding one that will fit in the allotted physical space is the real test. I looked for several weeks, but had no luck. I finally ended up rebuilding the one I had.

A /6 bike is going to need a 3-position (Off, Ignition, Ignition w/ Lights). An early /7 before the lights-out-while-cranking might want the same switch as a /6. Then later /7 and other will do with a simple On/Off switch.

I'm going to be interested in the follow-on replies.

i would love to see a schematic of this switch. i've been into mine, but wonder if the insides are all there.

Mottorad Elektrik has a replacement with two keys for $149.99. Call Rick and ask if you have questions.

Mottorad Elektrik has a replacement with two keys for $149.99. Call Rick and ask if you have questions.

Mottorad Elektrik has a replacement with two keys for $149.99. Call Rick and ask if you have questions.

Oh man, those guys are great ! I bought a harness from them and the parts and service was excellent.

they are good. after i explained the situation, rick suggested to clean the starter relay plug-ins. bingo! my ignition switch was going out and i could have fixed it with a $10 toggle switch. instead i coughed up the bucks for reproduction switch. now i have parking lights again. does anyone ever use parking lights?

I get so into the problem, that I don't relate multiple posts inside different forums concerning different facets of the same issue. It leads to a lot of trouble. So this was all connected with the "Buzz in the Headlamp" thread, elsewhere in this forum....

https://www.airheads.org/forum/wrenching/502-1979-r80-7-buzz-in-headlight-bucket

I will urge you to pop off the tin can cover on your starter relay, and there behold an alchemist's science project in progress. It's not enough to simply clean the relay terminals. You will most probably need to replace the starter relay because of the internal corrosion. However, unlike some of the mini-cube relays BMW uses, that particular one is also used on a lot of other vehicles, making it commonly available from very inexpensive sources such as Amazon.

Try: This Relay Right Here for $7 !! You'll need to lop off the mounting ear before installation of the fuel tank, but other than that it's the same relay.

I also urge you to scrub off all the old brake fluid (the clear gelatinous paste) on the relay socket with hot soapy water and a tooth brush. Then use an ice pick to ever so slightly tighten up both connectors on the 2 Red wires. Then treat your new relay terminals with No-Ox-Id corrosion inhibiting paste before plugging it in.

That would be a complete repair.