I can't believe that this question has gone almost 2-1/2 days with no response at all.

You mentioned that you "recently adjusted valves and end play", and then go on to say you have no vacuum on one side.

What was the vacuum reading before any adjustments were done? Are you sure you had vacuum previously?

Low/no vacuum is almost always caused by no compression. No compression can be caused by a number of things, among them, tight valve settings, not allowing one or more valves to close completely, and thereby causing low/no compression. Other, more serious issues can also lead to no compression, but most are accompanied by clues such as terrible clattering or some such significant warning of doom.

Did you adjust the valve clearances with the pistons on TDC of the compression stroke on each cylinder?

Secondly, when you "overhauled the Bings", is there any possibility that a vacuum port was inadvertently blocked? Does your vacuum gauge show no vacuum and no movement at all with throttle variation, as if it were not even connected, or does it just show a very low reading?

Steevo,

Thank you for your time and help.

I have always had vacuum. I adjusted valves, end play and cleaned and rebuilt carbs during annual maintainance.

I adjusted by ear in order to ride it long enough to warm it up to FOT, and it showed signs of rough shake at idle, and smoothed out at speed.

When I hooked up the Carbtune, I was surprised to see vacuum on the left, and none on the right. It does move with throttle, and it moves a little with AF screw, and slightly with idle scew. To anwer your question on this: no idea if I have inadvertently blocked the port, and it shows a very low reading.

I have done nothing yet, as I'm gathering my information for a plan.

I guess I should re-check valve clearance, start it and check the carb to head boots for air leaks. If neither of those works, recheck needle setting. I'm kind of stuck after those checks.

Do you recommend a sequence?

Thank you, Kim

I would absolutely re-adjust the valves as a first step. Once you are sure that is all correct, run a compression test on the side that has/had low vacuum to assure there is no other problem causing low/no compression.
When that is done, and is good, then I'd move on to looking at a carb problem.

Steevo, thank you. I'll follow that sequence. It'll be a couple of weeks before I can get back to it, but I'll post my results.

I would absolutely re-adjust the valves as a first step. Once you are sure that is all correct, run a compression test on the side that has/had low vacuum to assure there is no other problem causing low/no compression.
When that is done, and is good, then I'd move on to looking at a carb problem.

Absolutely agree.

The valves can only be properly adjusted once in every 720 degrees (2 full turns) of crank rotation. And valve adjustment position differs between left and right cylinders by 360 degrees. If both valve covers are removed, when the crank is rotated in the vicinity of TDC one set of rocker arms will be moving. You adjust the rocker arms that are NOT moving. Then rotate the crank 360 degrees and adjust the valves on the opposite side.

Hope this helps.

Wobbly, thank you. I will make sure to pay attention.

Wobbly, thank you. I will make sure to pay attention.

Absolutely no intent to flame or disrespect your abilities, my brother. For some here it is long-standing standard practice, for others it is a forehead-slapping Eureka! moment. I simply couldn't decipher your mechanical skill index from your post.

Wobbly, thanks, no concern needed. I asked for the help and I appreciate all reasonable input. Yours fits reasonability. I'm a long time ride and wrencher, but this is my first BMW, so I'm still learning. I appreciate your help.