Yes, you will have to pull the swing arm pivot pins, the clutch throw out lever, and probably the top shock absorber bolts. And, you will want to support the transmission while it is free floating. The downside is that it is difficult to clean the splines, particularly the spline of the clutch driven plate.

What does it take at this point? Four more bolts and lift out gearbox. Check for RMS leak, clean inside of disk splines as well as better clean input shaft and lube. Even look for disk wear. You're 95% there, go ahead and finish. 

If the 4 u-joint bolts have lock washers, it might be a good idea to replace the bolts with the available shorter ones and chuck the lockwashers as they have been known to break.

OK. Well it seems no one has answered the question I asked. I mentioned I have new u-joint bolts, so worrying about lock washers is not a concern. And, since I have the final drive out, the shock is out too. On an R65, there is enough movement of the driveshaft in the swing arm toward the rear that you can get at the splines without removing the trans or disconnecting the u-joint. Wondering if that's true for a /5.

But, if I choose to pull the trans completely, what is the best way to lock up the free-turning driveshaft so I can unscrew the four bolts and also to get them properly torqued on re-assembly?

@5556, The best way to lock the driveshaft to extract the U-joint bolts is to use the rear brake when the drive line is assembled. If you have removed the final drive, that is not an option unless you put it all back together.

You can gain enough clearance between the transmission and motor to lube the input splines, but you must remove the clutch actuation assembly (throw out lever) on the back of the transmission, AND, pull the swingarm pivot pins. You will need a 27mm socket with the nose end turned or ground down to loosen the locking nuts on the pivot pins. A typical 27mm socket will not fit in the frame bosses where the pivot pins are fitted. I modified the socket that I use for this on a bench grinder since I do not have access to a lathe. You might try this with the swingarm in place, but the clutch release mechanism limits the travel of the transmission on the front/rear linear axis. 

I helped a guy do this at a tech day a few years back. I think it might have been a /6. As I recall, the drive train was assembled and it was necessary to pull the top shock bolts, the swing arm pivots and the clutch lever. Then the whole drive line was moved toward the rear until the rear tire touched the inside of the rear fender. This created a sufficient gap to access the clutch splines at the front of the transmission. 

With regard to your question, " I'm trying to verify that there is enough driveshaft movement rearwards that I might be able to pull back the trans to lube the splines without unbolting the u-joint." I have never tried that. 

This might help. On this /5 short wheel base model swingarm assembly, which is out of the frame,with the driveshaft pulled back all the way, the u joint flange surface which bolts to the transmission flange measures 2mm proud of the swingarm housing. 

Thanks for all the suggestions. i do have a turned down socket for swing arm removal and I will likely pursue that route to get the clearance I’llneed to clean and lubs the splines. Would like to get everything put back together and checked out before Ihead off for 5he 2-3 day ride to the MOA National this summer.

JohnD