Hello Bill, been trying for a month or two to contact you via PM !

Asked Bob ‘Duck’ Koch to forward pictures and guidance; no joy.

I’ve converted a 1971(unfused) as well as a 1972(fused) Slash 5, to the former Rocky Point Key; even modified the OEM “nails” to the keys so only your mechanic will know 😉

Hopefully, the picture attached, goes through…

Don

Bill, saw that you were on here last Tuesday, July 02, 19:20… standing-by to assist !

Don

Aloha from Maui,

Special moment here for Yours Truly...this being my first post on any forum....ever.

At least it's to a group of folks I feel like I kinda know a little already. Been receiving Airmail for a few years, reading every issue cover to cover, enjoying the content, personalities, stories, etc...but never a need to dive in before now. Figured it would happen one day....here we are.

The reason for my reaching out is twofold. I'm having an issue with the RP Ignition upgrade recently installed in my '72 R60/5.

When the new key cylinder is installed it protrudes down into the headlight bucket cavity and prevents the headlight reflector from being fully reinstalled. At least on my bike, which is a nut and bolt resto cafe build started far too many years ago to be shared here, it's possible the headlight reflector used in the resto build is not a stock unit and the reflector is a different shape.  

The top of the (metal) headlight reflector bumps up hard against two of the wires attached to the bottom of the new key cylinder, making my mechanic (and me) nervous about future electrical problems caused by vibration and shorting of wires against metal reflector. Nothing was mentioned in original supplied instructions about this.

I've tried calling Bill at RP to ask about it but RP's phone # listed everywhere simply hangs up immediately. (Note: Just some minutes ago I read an article online that RP went out of biz...which explains their phone not functioning.) I also came across an online install instruction for the key upgrade that briefly mentions a potential reflector clearance issue on /2's, but not on /5's.

I began searching for a shallow, thinner profile, LED replacement headlight that would not consume as much bucket interior space and interfere with the wire terminals, but have come up empty handed so far.

Anybody aware of an LED headlight that is shallower than stock that would work in a /5?

Rick Jones at Motoelekt.com sells an LED headlight that replaces the entire stock unit w/reflector. Has a version for the /5. Looks cool, too. 

… make certain that the Ignition Switch does not have any nut still on the threads. Additionally, insure that all the parts of the OEM board have been removed, especially the very top, interior “hat” just below the shell.

The Alloy Switch Adapter must have the chamfered edge fully inserted up into the shell; the four(4) tangs re-bent solidly to hold it in place. The Ignition Switch is then inserted into the Adapter, with the BATT terminal to the rear of the bike, right up against the shell; the set screw is tightened down to hold the switch in place.

I converted my 1971 R 75/5, 1972 R 60/5 to the flat key switch, with their OEM Trim Ring, Lens, Reflector, and have been without issues for years. Recently, I converted a 1973 R 75/5 for an owner wanting the same Flat Key Switch; no reported issues.

… here’s an image of all the OEM Ignition Switch parts that must be removed; “Top Hat” is circled in red:

… in the picture of the OEM Ignition Switch, you do not have to remove the Chrome Cover with Plastic Slider; I was showing someone else the parts.

… slow evening here so, went through my images and here’s another of the Flat Key Conversion. This is not a true Rocky Point Conversion; I didn’t like their wire terminal strip laying in the bottom of the nacelle, where it might get wet ! I split the wire bundles to have them closer/neater to where they originate/terminate; have better fuse protection !

@6344 Hello Don, I've been on a workshop hiatus stepping away more/less in voluntary past few months since posting the RP instalation conundrum. Thanks for the picture of inside wiring, looks like you placed the RP block to left and Original to the right facing the shell. Now that I am stepping back into where I left off making terminal connections its like getting my head back in place on my prior mindset. Foremost my question go back to the role that the original terminal now serves departing from original schematics now that we are adding the RP block. According to the lame RP diagram there's more wiring to make contact connections stemming off the little blue loops than number of openings suggesting a need for crowding bare ends together which at the least is quite awkward nevermjnd at risk of separating? So let me start with you asking what you indeed have running straight off the added terminal block and what you have at the stock. The Pic you provided is not revealing details of course because that would be almost impossible to get those angles. So maybe if not to much you could make a little sketch and send forwards. I've thought about reverting back to the stock ignition board but Zimmer hesitant to bend those 50yro keeper tabs that easily can be broken which we don't wanna see that happen. Bill