I'm getting new Michelin Road Classics for my '73 Toaster (current tires are from 1999 and 2004, so...). While I have my wheels off, I'd planned to clean up the spokes due to some moderate oxidation and rust. I'm wondering how hard it is to just replace/re-lace all the spokes instead of cleaning them. Not something I want to do, but neither is cleaning spokes that will likely only come moderately clean. Feedback on the best Airheads advertiser to buy spokes from, how challenging re-lacing is, or how to best clean them? (I've watched some videos, but I'd rather get user feedback here.) Thanks.
Update: I've cleaned the front wheel spokes with 0000 steel wool for a marginal improvement. After reading more about spoke replacement on Snowbum's site, I'm going to stick with cleaning what I have.
Yeah, unless you are used to doing it and have the truing equipment for your balancer I wouldn't do it...personally I wouldn't attempt unless you are running across severe pitting or rust pockets that could compromise the spoke.
Jim
You have steel spokes that are (were) proabably cadmium plated. Once you polish through the anti-corrosion coating, then the same corrosion will most proabably return in a very short time.
You have a 1973 R-series with a drum brake. These hubs (front and rear) use "straight-pull" spokes. What I suggest you do is get a set of stainless steel spokes from Buchannan's ( https://www.buchananspokes.com/ ). They can supply their spokes polished stainless or matte finish, which ever "look" you want.
With the tire off, you can replace the spokes and nipples one at a time. When you install spokes one at a time, there will be no need for wheel truing or any of that type stuff. The fact that they are straight-pull allows you to easily do this. Unlike standard spokes, you won't need to loosen/remove 4 to get the new spoke into place, it's as simple as: loosen, slide the old out, slide the new one in, tighten with new nipple. They even supply some spoke thread lube, which makes it even easier.
What I suggest is that you skip around the wheel. Instead of advancing around the wheel by replacing adjacent spokes, do a simple pattern of replacing every 5th or 6th spoke. It will end up being the same total work, but your chances of keeping the wheel's trueness is increased.
And if there is any doubt when you finish, you already own the world's best wheel truing stand... it's called the front forks. Before installing the tire, simply slip the front wheel back between the forks, and snug up the front axle. Your rim should run exactly equidistant between the 2 fork legs. Measure it with a caliper to the tenth of a millimeter if you have doubts.
Given the choice between truing in the bike or truing in a wheel stand, I'd much rather do it in the bike. I've done hundreds of wheels with "spoke swaps" this way. It's simple, fast and foolproof. And you'll really like what new stainless spokes do for the "look" of your bike.
Owning an old Airhead is easy.
Keeping an old Airhead running great is the true test.
I really appreciate the thorough reply, explanation of the process, and spoke source. That makes sense to me (one at a time and alternating around the rim). It sounds very doable.
Thanks, Scott
Glad to help.
Owning an old Airhead is easy.
Keeping an old Airhead running great is the true test.
I use 2000 wet sand paper or emery cloth. I used it on get engines to remove small nicks on fan blades. I also used some polish paste. Its for sure going to be a ton of elbow grease involved but in comparison to the cost of new ones.
Hi Scott
I had the same problem. One of my three toasters has SS spokes, the other two have 51 year old OEM spokes. My decision was to clean up the two OEM sets. I washed the bike and wiped it all down. Then I used fine grit emery cloth to sand off rust and flakes, then used a green scrubby pad to clean off and prep for applying "Rub'n Buff. I used the Pewter color and put a pea size amount on a paper towel and rubbed it on, and buffed it off. Think makeup! I was changing tires so I had the rims off the bike. I used a barrel with wheels on it as a workbench and quickly buffed the spokes. My bike is a 5 footer so I'm very happy with the result. I actually wrote up an article "Ride and Shine" on this subject in the September issue of airmail. If you already installed new spokes that's great. Im a ride and shine guy not a restoration fanatic.
Good luck
Brian
I'm a ride and shine guy, not a restoration fanatic.
After any type of sanding/polishing takes place on older spokes they will certainly look better, yes. But that same action is also busting through even more of the surface plating that once protected the spoke. After the next wash or rain-ride, the wheels will simply return to their pre-care condition and look.
I'm a 'do it right, do it once' guy. The reason I recommend solid stainless spokes is that any type of future care or polishing is completely negated.... forever. If you get caught in the rain or do a 10 minute pressure wash, then simply riding the bike is all the after-care that's ever needed.
You can certainly chose any level of wheel care that you want. But stainless steel spokes are far from being a restoration-only solution. They can also be very practical.
Owning an old Airhead is easy.
Keeping an old Airhead running great is the true test.
Hi Richard
I like the idea of replacing spokes one at a time. I never thought of that. Now you have me thinking of trying it some day. For now I'm keeping my old spokes. They are not in bad shape and clean up well. Thanks for the "one at a time tip".
Brian
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